Fleece fabric: everything you need to know about this cozy fabric

What is fleece?

Fleece is a thick, soft, and warm fabric, recognizable by its slightly fluffy surface. Made from cotton, polyester, or a blend of both, it owes its characteristic feel to a napping process that raises the fibers to the surface.

Originally from the European textile industry, fleece has become the essential fabric for comfortable clothing. It is found in sweatshirts, jogging suits, blankets, and jacket linings.

Why choose fleece for your sewing projects?

Fleece has many qualities: it is warm without being heavy, stretchy without deforming, and pleasant to wear directly against the skin. Its ease of cutting and sewing makes it a perfect ally for both beginners and experienced sewers.

Contrary to popular belief, fleece is not limited to loungewear. Designers today use it for structured jackets, casual dresses, and even accessories.

Different types of fleece

Brushed fleece — The most classic. The back is brushed to create a soft, warm surface. This is the kind used for traditional winter sweatshirts.

Unbrushed fleece (French terry) — Lighter, with a looped back. Ideal for mid-season and sportswear.

Organic fleece — Made from GOTS-certified organic cotton. Same comfort, reduced environmental impact.

Technical fleece — Incorporates elastane for more stretch, or water-repellent treatments for outdoor use.

What projects can you sew with fleece?

A hooded sweatshirt — The great classic. Brushed fleece is perfect for a cozy sweatshirt that will last for years.

Jogging bottoms or loungewear pants — With French terry fleece for spring or brushed fleece for winter.

A bomber jacket — Thick fleece lends itself very well to structured jackets, especially with a zipper.

Accessories — Headbands, scarves, beanies... Fleece is suitable for all kinds of creative projects.

A baby blanket — The softness of organic fleece makes it an obvious choice for toddlers.

Our tips for sewing fleece

Needle: jersey (ballpoint) size 80 or 90 to avoid damaging the fibers.

Thread: polyester, which provides the necessary elasticity to follow the fabric's stretch.

Stitch: zigzag or stretch stitch. Avoid classic straight stitch, which may break when the fabric stretches.

Cutting: use a rotary cutter rather than scissors — fleece tends to move under the blades.

Tip: if your fleece rolls at the edges after cutting, iron it at a low temperature with a protective cloth.

How to care for fleece?

Washing: machine wash at 30°C, turned inside out to preserve the napping.

Drying: air dry preferably. The tumble dryer tends to pill fleece.

Ironing: rarely necessary. If needed, use a low iron on the reverse side only.

In summary

• Thick, soft, and warm fabric — ideal for winter and mid-season
• Easy to sew, even for beginners
• Available in brushed, French terry, organic, and technical versions
• Perfect for: sweatshirts, jogging bottoms, jackets, accessories
• Jersey needle 80/90 + stretch stitch
• Wash at 30°C inside out

Find our selection of fleece fabrics on sotissus.com.