Sweatshirt fleece: the cosy fabric for sweatshirts and pyjamas
L'équipe So TissusSoft, thick and nice and warm (≈ 250 to 350 g/m²), sweatshirt fleece is the queen of cosy clothes: sweatshirts, joggers, pyjamas and throws. Its brushed back gives it that fluffy feel. In cotton, polyester or a blend, stretchy and easy to sew, it's ideal for beginners.
What is sweatshirt fleece?
Sweatshirt fleece (molleton in French) is a thick, soft, warm fabric, recognisable by its slightly fuzzy surface. Made from cotton, polyester or a blend of the two, it owes its characteristic feel to a brushing process that raises the fibres on the surface.
Born in the European textile industry, it has become the go-to fabric for comfortable clothes. You'll find it in sweatshirts, joggers, blankets and jacket linings.
Why choose sweatshirt fleece for your sewing projects?
Sweatshirt fleece has it all: it's warm without being heavy, stretchy without losing its shape, and pleasant to wear next to the skin. Easy to cut and sew, it's a perfect ally for beginners and experienced sewists alike.
Contrary to popular belief, it isn't just for loungewear. Designers now use it for structured jackets, relaxed dresses and even accessories.
The different types of sweatshirt fleece
Brushed fleece — The most classic. The back is brushed to create a fluffy, warm surface. It's the fabric of traditional winter sweatshirts.
Unbrushed fleece (French terry) — Lighter, with a looped back. Ideal for the in-between seasons and sportswear.
Organic fleece — Made from GOTS-certified organic cotton. The same comfort with a lower environmental impact.
Technical fleece — With added elastane for extra stretch, or water-repellent treatments for outdoor wear.
Sweatshirt fleece, polar fleece or sweat knit: what's the difference?
These three warm knits look alike, but they don't sew quite the same way. Here's how to tell them apart.
| Fabric | Composition | Hand | Weight | Ideal for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sweatshirt fleece | Cotton, polyester or blend | Soft, brushed inside | 250-350 g/m² | Sweatshirts, joggers, pyjamas |
| Polar fleece | 100% polyester | Fluffy on both sides | 200-300 g/m² | Jackets, throws, linings |
| Sweat knit | Cotton (looped back) | Smooth outside, looped inside | 250-320 g/m² | Light sweatshirts, dresses |
What can you sew with sweatshirt fleece?
A hoodie — The great classic. Brushed fleece is perfect for a cosy sweatshirt that will last for years.
Joggers or lounge trousers — With French terry for spring or brushed fleece for winter.
A bomber jacket — Thick fleece works very well for structured jackets, especially with a zip.
Accessories — Headbands, scarves, beanies… Sweatshirt fleece lends itself to every whim.
A baby blanket — The softness of organic fleece makes it an obvious choice for little ones.
Our tips for sewing sweatshirt fleece
Needle: jersey (ballpoint) size 80 or 90 so as not to damage the fibres.
Thread: polyester, which gives the elasticity needed to follow the stretch of the fabric.
Stitch: zigzag or stretch stitch. Avoid a classic straight stitch, which may snap when the fabric stretches.
Cutting: use a rotary cutter rather than scissors — fleece tends to shift under the blades.
Tip: if your fleece curls at the edges after cutting, press it at a low temperature with a press cloth.
How to care for sweatshirt fleece
Washing: machine at 30 °C, turned inside out to protect the brushed side.
Drying: air dry if possible. The tumble dryer tends to make fleece pill.
Ironing: rarely needed. If necessary, low iron on the wrong side only.
In summary
- A thick, soft, warm fabric — ideal for winter and the in-between seasons
- Easy to sew, even for beginners
- Comes brushed, as French terry, organic and technical
- Perfect for: sweatshirts, joggers, jackets, accessories
- Jersey needle 80/90 + stretch stitch
- Wash at 30 °C inside out
Frequently asked questions about sweatshirt fleece
Which weight of sweatshirt fleece should you choose?
For a sweatshirt, aim for 250 to 300 g/m². For joggers or a really warm throw, go up to 300-350 g/m².
Which needle should you use to sew sweatshirt fleece?
A jersey or stretch 90/14 needle, with a slightly elastic stitch or a narrow zigzag to follow the stretch of the fabric.
Does sweatshirt fleece shrink in the wash?
Yes, especially in cotton. Wash it at 30 °C before cutting your pieces to pre-shrink the fabric.
Sweatshirt fleece or polar fleece: which to choose?
Sweatshirt fleece, often cotton, is more natural and breathable; polar fleece, 100% synthetic, is lighter and dries quickly. Next to the skin, sweatshirt fleece is more pleasant.
Discover our selection of sweatshirt fleece on sotissus.com.
