Linen: everything you need to know about the summer fabric

Cool, breathable and slightly textured, linen is a natural fibre perfect for summer: it absorbs moisture and dries quickly. Its "flaw" — it creases — is what gives it its relaxed charm. Strong and eco-friendly, it's easy to sew.

Linen is the fabric that smells of holidays. Light, breathable, slightly creased — it carries a relaxed elegance that no other fabric can reproduce. But behind its apparent simplicity lies a demanding fibre, with a few quirks worth knowing before you start.

What is linen?

Linen is a natural fibre taken from the stem of Linum usitatissimum, one of the oldest textile plants cultivated in the world. Dyed fibres dating back 36,000 years have been found in Georgia. Today, France and Belgium together produce around 75% of the world's linen, mainly in Normandy and the Hauts-de-France region.

What makes this fibre special:

• Very absorbent — it can absorb up to 20% of its weight in water without feeling damp
• Stronger than cotton, and even more so when wet
• Temperature-regulating — stays cool in summer, keeps some warmth in winter
• Naturally antibacterial
• And yes, it creases — that's its signature

Linen, cotton or hemp: which natural fibre?

Three cool, durable plant fibres with similar uses.

Which projects?

Linen excels in pieces that like a little body while remaining breathable:

• Summer clothes: shirts, blouses, dresses, fluid trousers, shorts
• Long dresses and tunics with a natural drape
• Light jackets such as kimonos, summer biker jackets, unlined blazers
• Household linen: tablecloths, napkins, sheets, tea towels
• Aprons, bags, accessories

Its natural stiffness gives volume and structure to clothes. Avoid it for very close-fitting pieces or very fluid drapes — in that case, a softer linen-viscose blend is better.

How to sew it

Linen isn't a tricky fabric, but it has a few requirements.

Before cutting

• Always pre-wash your fabric. Linen can shrink by up to 10% in the first wash. Wash it at the temperature you'll use for the finished garment.
• Press thoroughly after drying. Any remaining creases would distort your cutting lines.
• Cut on the straight grain: linen has a very visible weave, so use it to align your pattern carefully.

At the machine

• Universal needle 80 or Microtex 70
• Good-quality polyester or 100% cotton thread
• Standard straight stitch, 2.5 mm length

Finishes

• Linen frays a lot: always finish your seam allowances (zigzag, overlock stitch or overlocker).
• For a neater finish, use French seams or flat-felled seams — it's worth it for shirts and tablecloths.
• Be generous with steam when ironing: linen loves it.

How to care for it

• Washing: 30 or 40 °C, normal cycle. Turn the garment inside out.
• Drying: in the open air, flat if possible. Avoid the tumble dryer, which breaks the fibre in the long run.
• Ironing: hot (up to 200 °C), ideally while the linen is still slightly damp. It'll save you 5 minutes of effort.
• Storage: fold loosely or hang. Avoid plastic covers: linen needs to breathe.

And accept its little creases. That's what tells people you're wearing linen, not a polyester that looks like linen.

In summary

Linen is:

• Cool, elegant, natural, durable
• Ideal for summer and for pieces that need a little body
• Creases — that's its signature, not a flaw
• Frays: careful finishes are a must
• Shrinks in the first wash: pre-washing is non-negotiable

To get started with linen, choose a simple project: an oversized shirt, wide Marlene-style trousers, a summer tunic or a tablecloth. And make peace with its creases from the start.

Frequently asked questions about linen

Does linen crease a lot?

Yes, it's in its nature and part of its charm. To limit creases, choose a washed (softened) linen or a linen-viscose blend.

Does linen shrink in the wash?

Yes, especially in the first wash (up to 10%). Wash it before cutting and prefer 30 °C.

Is linen easy to sew?

Yes, it's stable and doesn't slip. Finish the edges (it frays). Universal needle 80/12.

How do you soften a slightly rough linen?

Wash it several times: linen softens with every wash. A gentle tumble dry speeds up the effect.

Discover our selection of linen fabrics in our linen collection.