Silk: everything you need to know about the noblest fibre

Luminous, soft and light, silk is a natural fibre produced by the silkworm, and the noblest in dressmaking. Temperature-regulating — cool in summer, warm in winter — it comes as crepe, satin, chiffon, twill or organza. An exceptional fabric, delicate but incomparable to wear.

Silk is the noble fibre par excellence. Naturally shiny, fluid, light and temperature-regulating, it has been used for more than 5,000 years for the most precious pieces in the wardrobe: evening dresses, scarves, high-end blouses, refined lingerie, luxury linings.

But behind the word "silk" lies a whole family: satin, crepe, chiffon, twill, organza, taffeta… Here's an overview before you cut into it.

What is silk?

Silk is an animal fibre produced by the silkworm (Bombyx) when it spins its cocoon. A single cocoon contains a continuous thread of 800 to 1,500 metres — incredibly fine, incredibly long.

Its unique properties:

• Very strong: stronger than a steel wire of the same diameter
• Light and fluid: an incomparable drape
• Temperature-regulating: keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter
• Hypoallergenic and naturally antibacterial
• Natural sheen thanks to the triangular structure of the fibre, which reflects light
• Absorbent: up to 30% of its weight in moisture

The main types of silk

Silk satin

The satin weave (where the warp passes over several weft yarns) gives a very smooth, shiny surface on one side and a matte one on the other. Perfect for evening dresses, elegant blouses, nightdresses and premium linings.

Crêpe de Chine

Woven with highly twisted yarns: a very fine, slightly grainy, matte surface. A fluid, understated drape. Ideal for blouses, draped dresses and scarves.

Silk chiffon

Very fine, almost transparent, as light as air. Reserved for light maxi dresses, veils and layering. It takes real skill to sew.

Silk twill

Recognisable by its visible diagonal. More structured than crepe, perfect for square scarves (like the famous Hermès carrés) and tailored blouses.

Crepe-back satin

Two usable sides: lustrous satin on one side, matte crepe on the other. Widely used in haute couture to play with both finishes in the same garment.

Silk organza and taffeta

Stiffer, transparent (organza) or opaque (taffeta). For structured dresses, wedding dresses and full skirts. Not for beginners.

The great silks: crepe, satin, chiffon or twill?

The word "silk" covers very different fabrics.

Which projects?

• Evening and formal dresses: satin, crepe-back satin, chiffon
• High-end blouses: crêpe de Chine, twill
• Wedding dresses: satin, organza, taffeta
• Lingerie and nightdresses: light satin, crepe
• Scarves: twill (square), chiffon (long)
• Premium linings: crêpe de Chine, habotai

Avoid: anything that needs a lot of stiffness or will be washed very often. Silk is for the pieces you cherish, not for heavy everyday wear.

How to sew it

Silk is a demanding fabric. A few precautions will keep you from ruining it.

Before cutting

• Don't pre-wash silk that will be dry cleaned.
• For silks that will be hand washed: test on a scrap first.
• Lay the fabric on tissue paper or a blanket so it doesn't slip while cutting.
• Use pattern weights rather than pins — pins can leave permanent marks.
• Cut with very sharp, perfectly clean scissors.

At the machine

• A fine, new needle: Microtex 70, or a special silk needle 70
• A very fine, good-quality polyester thread, or silk thread
• Short straight stitch: 2 mm
• Turn the handwheel by hand for the first stitches so the silk doesn't get caught in the needle plate
• Tack before sewing — it takes time, but it saves you from unpicking silk (the holes stay)

Finishes

• Silk frays a lot. French seams are a must on fine pieces; overlock with the knives for the others.
• Rolled hems on the overlocker for scarves and fluid dresses.
• No iron that is too hot: 110 °C maximum, with a press cloth.

How to care for it

• Dry cleaning is recommended for most silks, especially structured and coloured pieces.
• Hand washing is possible in cold water with a very gentle detergent (like a cashmere wash): soak for 5 minutes, no rubbing, rinse in cold water.
• No wringing: blot in a clean towel and dry flat in the shade.
• Ironing at a low temperature (110 °C), on the wrong side, with a press cloth to prevent shine.
• Storage: away from light (silk yellows in the sun), in cotton garment bags (not plastic).

In summary

• A noble, fluid, shiny, temperature-regulating fibre
• Several types depending on the weave: satin, crepe, chiffon, twill, organza, taffeta
• Ideal for: evening dresses, high-end blouses, scarves, lingerie, premium linings
• Demanding to sew: fine needle, pattern weights, French seams, hand tacking
• Gentle care: dry cleaning or cold hand wash, low-temperature ironing

To get started with silk, choose a crêpe de Chine for a simple blouse, or a twill for a square scarf. Avoid chiffon and taffeta if you've never sewn a fluid fabric — you'll regret it. And always tack before every machine seam.

Frequently asked questions about silk

Is silk difficult to sew?

It slips and frays: a fine 60/8 or 70/10 needle, pattern weights, tissue paper underneath, and French seams or a rolled hem for the finishes.

How do you wash silk?

Hand wash in cold water with a gentle soap, or dry clean. Don't wring; iron at a low temperature on the wrong side, with the fabric slightly damp.

Is silk warm?

It regulates temperature: cool in hot weather, insulating in cold weather. Pleasant all year round.

Does silk turn yellow?

It doesn't like direct sunlight or perspiration. Store it away from light and wash it after prolonged wear.

Discover our selection of silk fabrics in our silk collection.