Velvet: everything you need to know about the pile fabric
So TissusVelvet is a fabric covered with a short, dense pile, which gives it its soft hand and deep sheen. Corduroy, plain, silk or knit: it ranges from relaxed trousers to evening dresses. Its sewing secret comes down to two words: nap direction.
What is velvet?
Velvet is a fabric whose surface is covered with upright fibres, cut very short: the pile. It is made by weaving an extra yarn in loops, which are then cut to form this soft down.
The pile catches the light differently depending on its direction. That's what gives velvet its deep colour and its shifting sheen when you run your hand over it.
Like twill, velvet is not a fibre but a structure. It comes in cotton, viscose, silk, polyester or blends.
Why choose velvet for your sewing projects?
Velvet is warm, soft and dressy all at once. It brings texture and depth to a simple piece: straight trousers or a basic skirt instantly look different.
It's also the key fabric of the season: velvet comes back every autumn, from relaxed corduroy to the smooth velvet of party outfits.
The different types of velvet
Corduroy — The pile forms parallel ribs (wales). Fine wales are called needlecord, wide ones wide-wale corduroy. Sturdy, most often in cotton (250 to 400 g/m²).
Plain velvet — Short, even pile, without ribs. In cotton or viscose, for jackets, skirts and dresses.
Silk velvet — A viscose pile on a silk base. Very fluid and luminous, it's the velvet of evening dresses (150 to 200 g/m²).
Panne velvet — The pile is pressed flat in several directions, creating marbled reflections.
Devoré velvet — Part of the pile is removed by a treatment, revealing sheer patterns.
Stretch velvet — A knitted velvet, so it stretches. Comfortable for close-fitting dresses and tops.
Corduroy, plain or silk velvet: what's the difference?
These three velvets feel similar, but they don't have the same drape or the same use.
| Fabric | Composition | Hand | Weight | Ideal for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Corduroy | Cotton, sometimes with elastane | Raised ribs, sturdy | 250 to 400 g/m² | Trousers, jackets, skirts |
| Plain velvet | Cotton or viscose | Short, soft, even | 200 to 350 g/m² | Jackets, skirts, dresses |
| Silk velvet | Viscose pile on a silk base | Very fluid, luminous | 150 to 200 g/m² | Evening dresses, blouses, stoles |
What can you sew with velvet?
Trousers — In corduroy, straight or wide: the autumn classic.
A jacket or blazer — In plain velvet or fine needlecord, for a chic, warm piece.
A skirt — An A-line in corduroy, or a wrap skirt in plain velvet.
An evening dress — In silk velvet, cut simply to let the fabric speak.
A close-fitting top or dress — In stretch velvet, with no fastening thanks to its stretch.
Our tips for sewing velvet
Follow the nap. This is the golden rule. Run your hand over the fabric: one way it feels smooth, the other way it catches. Cut all pieces in the same direction, otherwise they won't be the same colour once sewn together. With the nap running up, the shade is deeper; running down, it is lighter and softer. Allow a little extra fabric.
Cut in a single layer, on the wrong side, and mark the nap direction on each piece.
Stop the layers from slipping. Velvet "creeps": the two layers shift under the foot. Tack your seams, use a walking foot if you have one, and reduce the presser foot pressure.
Choose the right needle. A 70/10 or 80/12 for silk velvet and plain velvet, 90/14 for corduroy, a stretch needle for stretch velvet. Straight stitch of 2.5 to 3 mm.
Never press flat. The iron crushes the pile and leaves marks. Press on the wrong side, with steam, laying the velvet on a thick towel or a needle board.
How to care for velvet
Cotton corduroy can be machine washed at 30 °C, inside out. Viscose velvet and silk velvet prefer dry cleaning. Don't wring or crumple them.
To remove creases and lift the pile, steam from a distance without touching the fabric. Store your velvet pieces on a hanger rather than folded.
In summary
- A fabric with a short, dense pile, soft with a deep sheen
- Corduroy, plain, silk, panne, devoré or stretch
- From 150 g/m² (silk velvet) to 400 g/m² (corduroy)
- Perfect for: trousers, jackets, skirts, evening dresses
- All pieces in the same nap direction, tack the seams
- Never press flat: steam on the wrong side
Frequently asked questions about velvet
Which way should you cut velvet?
Always in the same direction for all pieces. With the nap running up, the colour is deeper; running down, it is lighter. The main thing is not to mix the two.
Can you iron velvet?
Yes, but never flat on the right side. Press on the wrong side, with steam, with the velvet laid on a thick towel so the pile isn't crushed.
Which needle should you use to sew velvet?
A 70/10 or 80/12 for silk velvet and plain velvet, a 90/14 for corduroy, a stretch needle for stretch velvet.
Can corduroy go in the washing machine?
Yes, if it's cotton: at 30 °C, turned inside out, without a strong spin. Silk velvet, however, should be dry cleaned.
Discover our selection of velvets on sotissus.com.
