How to choose your sewing thread: the complete guide
L'équipe So TissusSewing thread is the unsung hero of sewing. We spend hours choosing our fabric, our pattern, our machine... and then grab the first thread we find. Yet the wrong thread can ruin an entire project: seams that break, loops forming, fabric puckering. Here's how to choose the right one.
The different types of thread
Polyester thread (the all-rounder)
This is the most widely used and recommended thread for the majority of sewing projects.
- Advantages: strong, elastic, resistant to washing and light, affordable
- Disadvantages: less refined than cotton or silk
- For which fabrics: almost all of them! Cotton, linen, polyester, blends, jersey
- Our advice: this is the thread to always have in your sewing room
Cotton thread (the traditional choice)
100% cotton thread is ideal for natural fibre fabrics.
- Advantages: soft, matte, natural finish, withstands high-temperature ironing
- Disadvantages: less elastic than polyester, may shrink when washed
- For which fabrics: cotton, linen, lightweight natural fabrics
- Our advice: perfect for patchwork and hand sewing
Silk thread (the luxury option)
Silk thread is the choice of discerning sewists for delicate fabrics.
- Advantages: very fine, strong despite its fineness, glides perfectly through fabric, invisible
- Disadvantages: high price
- For which fabrics: silk, chiffon, organza, haute couture fabrics
- Our advice: essential if you're sewing with our clearance silks!
Woolly nylon / textured thread (for stretch)
Specially designed for stretch fabrics.
- Advantages: stretchy, soft, flat seams
- For which fabrics: jersey, lycra, knits
- Our advice: use in the bobbin with polyester as the upper thread
How to choose thread weight
Thread weight is measured in numbers. The higher the number, the finer the thread.
| Weight | Use | Fabrics |
|---|---|---|
| No. 30 (heavy) | Decorative topstitching, jeans | Denim, heavy canvas |
| No. 50 (standard) | General sewing | Cotton, linen, wool, viscose |
| No. 80-100 (fine) | Delicate fabrics | Silk, chiffon, organza |
| No. 120 (very fine) | Invisible stitching | Fine silk, invisible hems |
The golden rule: thread + needle + fabric
These three elements must work in harmony:
- Lightweight fabric (silk, chiffon) → fine thread (No. 80-100) + fine needle (60-70)
- Medium fabric (cotton, linen, viscose) → standard thread (No. 50) + medium needle (80)
- Heavy fabric (denim, thick wool) → heavy thread (No. 30-40) + heavy needle (90-100)
What colour thread to choose?
The classic rule: one shade darker than your fabric. A slightly darker thread is less visible than a lighter one.
For prints, choose the dominant colour of the fabric.
And when in doubt? Medium grey works with everything except pure white or black.
Mistakes to avoid
- Using old thread: thread that's 10 years old breaks easily. Test it by pulling — if it snaps cleanly, throw it away
- Mixing brands on the same project: tensions can vary
- Using embroidery thread for sewing: it's not designed to withstand the stress of a seam
- Skimping on quality: cheap thread pills, clogs the machine and breaks
Our haberdashery selection
At So Tissus, we offer a range of threads and haberdashery accessories to support your projects. Find our threads, needles, pins and accessories at sotissus.com.
Have a question about choosing your thread? Send us a DM on Instagram @sotissus_com, we always reply!
