Flannel: wool, cotton or viscose?
L'équipe So TissusSoft, warm and slightly fuzzy thanks to its brushed finish, flannel comes in wool, cotton or viscose. Warmth without weight: we love it for winter shirts, pyjamas, trousers and cosy dresses. A timeless classic that's easy to sew.
What is flannel?
Flannel is a soft, slightly fluffy fabric obtained by brushing the surface. Traditionally woven in wool, it also exists in cotton and synthetic blends. Its name is said to come from the Welsh "gwlanen" (wool), a sign of its British origins.
Popular in the 17th century for underwear and work shirts, flannel has become a classic of the winter wardrobe — from checked lumberjack shirts to English tailored trousers.
Why choose flannel for your sewing projects?
Flannel combines warmth and lightness. Unlike a thick wool coating, it stays supple and pleasant to wear. Its soft hand makes it a feel-good fabric, as comfortable for pyjamas as for a dressy jacket.
It's easy to sew, doesn't slip under the machine, and forgives small inaccuracies — a real joy for sewists of all levels.
The different types of flannel
Wool flannel — The most noble. Soft and warm, with a beautiful drape. It's the flannel of English suit trousers and blazers. Comes in light weights (shirts) and medium weights (suits).
Cotton flannel — More affordable, slightly rougher. It's the flannel of checked shirts and pyjamas. Easy to machine wash.
Blended flannel — Wool/polyester or cotton/synthetic. Combines the feel of natural flannel with the durability of synthetic fibres.
Wool, cotton or viscose flannel: which to choose?
The word "flannel" refers to a brushed finish, not a fibre, so it comes in several materials, each with its own character.
| Type of flannel | Hand & drape | Weight | Ideal for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wool | Warm, structured, noble | 200-300 g/m² | Trousers, jackets, winter suits |
| Cotton | Soft, supple, breathable | 150-220 g/m² | Shirts, pyjamas, dresses, bedding |
| Viscose | Fluid, light, lovely drape | 150-200 g/m² | Fluid winter blouses and dresses |
What can you sew with flannel?
A shirt — The flannel project par excellence. In checked cotton for a relaxed style, or in plain wool for a dressier result.
Tailored trousers — Grey wool flannel is a great classic of both men's and women's wardrobes.
Pyjamas — Cotton flannel brushed on both sides, softness guaranteed.
An A-line skirt — Wool flannel has enough body for a structured skirt that hangs perfectly.
A scarf — Simple, quick and so pleasant to wear.
Our tips for sewing flannel
Needle: universal size 80 for cotton flannel, 90 for wool flannel.
Thread: polyester or cotton depending on the fabric. Match the thread fibre to the fabric fibre.
Cutting: watch the direction of the brushing. Always cut in the same direction to avoid colour variations between pieces.
Seams: finish the edges, as flannel tends to fray.
Tip: pre-wash cotton flannel — it shrinks significantly in the first wash. Wool flannel should be pre-shrunk with steam instead.
How to care for flannel
Cotton flannel: machine wash at 30-40 °C, air dry (the tumble dryer makes it pill).
Wool flannel: dry cleaning is preferable, or hand wash in cold water with a wool detergent.
Ironing: medium iron with steam on the wrong side. Don't press too hard so as not to flatten the brushed surface.
In summary
- A soft, fuzzy fabric, warm without being heavy
- Comes in wool (noble), cotton (affordable) and blends
- Easy to sew, ideal for all levels
- Perfect for: shirts, trousers, pyjamas, skirts, scarves
- Watch the direction of the brushing when cutting
- Pre-wash cotton, pre-shrink wool with steam
Frequently asked questions about flannel
Does flannel itch?
Quite the opposite: the brushing is what makes it soft and fuzzy. Cotton flannel is especially soft, ideal for sensitive skin and children.
Is flannel really warm?
Yes: the brushing traps air and holds in warmth without being heavy. Wool flannel is the warmest, cotton flannel the most breathable.
How do you wash flannel?
At 30 °C, then iron on the wrong side. Wash it before cutting: cotton flannel can shrink slightly in the first wash.
Which needle should you use to sew flannel?
A universal 80/12 needle for cotton, 90/14 for wool. Finish the edges, as flannel frays a little.
Discover our selection of flannels on sotissus.com.
