The right hem for every type of fabric
So TissusThe hem is the finish you only think about at the very end of a project. Yet it's often what makes the difference between a "homemade" garment and one that looks like high-end ready-to-wear.
The bad news: there's no single right hem. The right choice depends on the fabric, the garment and the effect you want. The good news: with the right pairings, you won't get it wrong again.
1. The rolled hem on the overlocker
Which fabrics? Very fine, fluid fabrics: crêpe de Chine, silk chiffon, cotton voile, organza, gauze.
Very narrow (2 to 3 mm), it rolls over on itself to form a discreet, neat finish, perfect when a classic hem would weigh down the drape.
On the overlocker, you remove the knives or set the "rolled hem" mode. On a sewing machine, you can imitate it with a very tight zigzag stitch on a hem folded as narrowly as possible.
2. The classic double-fold hem
Which fabrics? Cottons (poplin, twill), linens, medium-weight viscoses.
The all-purpose hem. Fold once by 1 cm, press, fold a second time by 1 to 3 cm (depending on the garment), press, and sew with a straight stitch.
For a shirt: 1 cm + 1 cm. For trousers: 1 cm + 3 cm. For a full dress: 1 cm + 2 to 5 cm depending on the drape.
3. The blind hem
Which fabrics? Dress trousers, straight skirts, evening dresses.
The must for smart garments: no stitching is visible on the right side. It's done by hand with a blind hem stitch (catching just one or two threads of the main fabric), or by machine with a blind hem foot.
It takes longer, but the result is unbeatable.
4. The bias-faced hem
Which fabrics? Thick fabrics that don't fold well (heavy denim, bouclé wool, coats), or to add a decorative contrast.
Finish the raw edge, sew a bias strip (shop-bought or homemade) along the edge, then fold it to the wrong side. Very useful when the hem allowance is too short for a classic hem — which often happens when you lengthen a pattern at the last minute.
5. The hem for flared and circle cuts
Which fabrics? Long skirts, draped dresses, fluid bias-cut voiles.
On flared cuts, a classic hem ripples because the inner circumference is smaller than the outer one. The solution: a very narrow rolled hem, or an eased hem (gather the allowance slightly before sewing).
On pieces cut on the bias (linen, viscose, crepe), let the piece hang for 24 to 48 hours before hemming: the bias stretches under its own weight, and the final hem will be straight instead of uneven.
6. The simple overlocked hem
Which fabrics? Knits, jerseys, sweatshirt fleece.
On knits, you don't need to stop fraying (knits don't fray). You can simply fold once and sew with a zigzag stitch, a stretch stitch, or a coverstitch machine for a professional finish.
A tip: a little fusible hem tape pressed on before sewing stabilises the hem and stops the knit from stretching out of shape.
Recap: which hem for which fabric?
- Silk, chiffon, voile: rolled hem
- Cotton, poplin, medium linen, viscose: classic double-fold hem
- Dress trousers, straight skirt, evening dress: blind hem
- Heavy denim, bouclé wool, coat: bias-faced hem
- Full skirt, bias cut, drape: rolled or eased hem, after hanging for 24-48 h
- Jersey, sweatshirt fleece, knit: zigzag, stretch stitch or coverstitch
Three mistakes to avoid
- Not pressing between each fold. A well-pressed hem holds on its own and sews straight. An unpressed hem ripples and ends up crooked.
- Skipping the hanging step for bias cuts. 24 to 48 hours on a hanger before hemming is the secret of long skirts that hang straight.
- Choosing a hem that's too deep for the fabric. A 5 cm hem on chiffon will pull the piece down and ruin its drape.
The hem is rarely the moment you look forward to, but it's often what makes the difference between "not bad" and "wow". Five minutes of patience at the end often saves hours of work.
