Wool: everything you need to know about the winter fibre
So TissusA natural fibre taken from the fleece of sheep, wool is the winter fabric par excellence: warm, breathable and elastic, it absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet. Wool coating, tropical wool, flannel or tweed: it ranges from thick coats to light tailored trousers.
What is wool?
Wool is an animal fibre obtained by shearing sheep (and, by extension, other animals such as cashmere goats or alpacas). It is made of keratin, the same protein as our hair. What makes it special is its shape: each fibre is naturally crimped and covered with tiny scales.
This crimp traps air, which explains why wool insulates so well. The scales explain its tendency to felt when rubbed in hot water. After shearing, the wool is washed, carded or combed, then spun and woven (or knitted).
There are two main families of yarn. Worsted wool, made of long, parallel fibres, gives smooth, fine and crisp fabrics, such as tropical wool. Woollen (carded) wool, made of shorter, tangled fibres, gives thicker, fluffier fabrics, such as wool coating or tweed.
Why choose wool for your sewing projects?
Wool regulates temperature: it keeps you warm in winter while letting your skin breathe, and it doesn't cling when you sweat. It is also naturally elastic: a crease or wrinkle often disappears after a night on a hanger.
Wool is a real pleasure to sew. It can be shaped with a steam iron, which lets you form a collar, round a shoulder or ease in a little extra fullness. That is why it remains the basis of traditional tailoring.
Finally, wool is hard to ignite and wears very well. A beautiful wool garment lasts for years.
The different types of wool
Wool coating — A thick, dense fabric (400 to 600 g/m²), slightly felted on the surface. The classic choice for winter coats.
Tropical wool — A fine worsted wool with a dry hand (150 to 250 g/m²). Perfect for tailored trousers and jackets worn all year round.
Wool flannel — A brushed, soft, matte fabric (250 to 350 g/m²), ideal for winter skirts, trousers and jackets.
Wool crepe — A grainy surface and a beautiful fluid drape. Lovely for dresses and skirts with movement.
Boiled wool — Wool that has been deliberately felted, very compact. It doesn't fray, so edges can be left raw.
Tweed — Carded wool woven in herringbone or checks, with a mottled texture. The fabric of jackets with character.
Merino and cashmere blends — Finer fibres (under 24 microns for merino), softer against the skin.
Wool coating, tropical wool or cashmere: what's the difference?
All three are called wool, but they differ in both weight and use.
| Fabric | Composition | Hand | Weight | Ideal for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wool coating | Carded wool, sometimes blended | Thick, dense, slightly felted | 400 to 600 g/m² | Coats, capes, winter jackets |
| Tropical wool | Worsted wool, tight weave | Fine, dry, crisp | 150 to 250 g/m² | Trousers, suits, straight dresses |
| Cashmere | Goat down, pure or blended with wool | Very soft, warm, light | 250 to 450 g/m² | Light coats, scarves, close-fitting pieces |
What can you sew with wool?
A coat — In wool coating or boiled wool. Add a lining so the garment slides easily over a jumper.
Tailored trousers — In tropical wool or flannel. Wool holds a pressed crease and keeps its shape all day.
A winter skirt — An A-line skirt in flannel, a pencil skirt in wool crepe: two easy classics.
A jacket or blazer — In tweed or tropical wool, for anyone wanting to try tailoring.
A cape or poncho — In boiled wool, with no edge finishing: a great first wool project.
Our tips for sewing wool
Pre-shrink before cutting. Wool can shrink at the first touch of steam. Steam the whole length with the iron, without pressing down, then let it dry flat.
Follow the nap. Wool coating and flannel don't look the same shade in both directions. Cut all pieces in the same direction.
Choose the right needle. A universal 80/12 needle for tropical wool and crepe, 90/14 or 100/16 for wool coating. Polyester thread, straight stitch of 2.5 to 3 mm (3.5 mm on thick fabrics).
Press at every step. Use a press cloth (a damp cotton cloth) so the wool doesn't go shiny. A sleeve board and a tailor's clapper help flatten thick seams.
Take care with the finishes. Overlock or zigzag on tropical wool, piped or bias-bound seams on an unlined coat. Boiled wool can be left with raw edges.
How to care for wool
Wool needs little washing: a garment aired overnight by an open window often feels fresh again. When you do wash it, choose hand washing or the wool programme, at 30 °C maximum, with a wool detergent. Avoid rubbing and sudden temperature changes, which make the fibre felt.
Always dry flat, never in the tumble dryer. Steam press with a press cloth. For coats and suits, dry cleaning remains the safest option. Store your woollens clean, with a lavender sachet or cedar wood to keep moths away.
In summary
- A warm, breathable and elastic natural fibre
- Worsted (smooth and fine) or woollen (thick and fluffy)
- From 150 g/m² (tropical wool) to 600 g/m² (wool coating)
- Perfect for: coats, tailored trousers, skirts, jackets
- Pre-shrink before cutting, needle 80/12 to 100/16, press cloth
- Hand wash at 30 °C maximum, dry flat
Frequently asked questions about wool
Does wool always itch?
No. It's the thick fibres that prickle. A fine merino wool (under 24 microns) or a cashmere blend can be worn comfortably next to the skin.
Should you wash wool before sewing it?
No need to wash it: pre-shrinking is enough. Steam the fabric with the iron without pressing down, then let it dry flat before cutting.
Which needle should you use to sew wool?
A universal 80/12 needle for tropical wool and crepe, 90/14 to 100/16 for wool coating and tweed.
Which wool should you choose for a coat?
A wool coating of 400 to 600 g/m² or a boiled wool. For a lighter, softer coat, a wool and cashmere blend.
Discover our selection of wool fabrics on sotissus.com.
