How to sew silk: 10 tips for a perfect result

Silk is the queen of fabrics. Fluid, luminous, noble to the touch… but also dreaded by many sewists. It slips, it frays, it marks under the iron. Yet with the right techniques, sewing silk is perfectly doable, even if you're not an expert.

At So Tissus, we regularly offer exceptional silks from great French fashion houses: crêpe de Chine, satin, twill, pongee… Here are our 10 tips to make the most of them.

1. Wash (or don't wash) your silk before cutting

Natural silk can shrink by 3 to 5% in the first wash. Two options:

• If you plan to wash your creation: pre-wash the fabric by hand in lukewarm water with a gentle shampoo, then dry flat. Then cut.
• If you plan to dry clean: don't pre-wash, cut straight away.

So Tissus tip: order a swatch, wash it and compare it with the unwashed fabric to measure the exact shrinkage.

2. Use the right cutting tools

Silk is fine and slippery. Your tools make all the difference:

• Scissors: use very sharp dressmaking scissors. Blunt scissors "chew" silk.
• Rotary cutter: even better than scissors for straight cuts. Use it with a cutting mat.
• Pins: choose extra-fine pins (silk pins) or, better still, sewing clips to avoid any visible holes.

3. The tissue-paper technique for cutting

It's THE professionals' secret:

1. Lay a sheet of tissue paper (the wrapping paper, not the fabric!) on your work surface
2. Lay your silk on top
3. Add a second sheet of tissue paper on top
4. Pin your pattern pieces through all 3 layers
5. Cut everything together

The tissue paper stops the fabric from slipping and guarantees a clean cut. It works like magic.

4. Choose the right machine needle

The needle does 80% of the work:

• Type: Microtex needle (fine point) or silk needle
• Size: 60 or 70 maximum. A needle that's too thick will leave visible holes.
• Condition: use a NEW needle. A worn needle will snag silk's delicate fibres.

Change your needle after each silk project.

5. Adjust your sewing machine

Standard settings don't suit silk:

• Stitch length: 2.0 to 2.5 mm (shorter than the usual 3.0 mm)
• Thread tension: reduce slightly (test on a scrap)
• Presser foot: use a smooth-soled foot or a Teflon foot
• Foot pressure: reduce it if your machine allows

Test first, always: stitch on a scrap of fabric before sewing your project. Adjust tension and stitch length until you get a flat, even seam.

6. Use the right thread

• Silk thread: the ideal choice, it blends perfectly with the fabric
• Fine polyester thread: an acceptable alternative (a fine all-purpose thread, size 100)
• Avoid: basic cotton thread, too stiff for silk

7. Stabilise the seams

Silk tends to get "eaten" under the presser foot. To avoid this:

• Place tissue paper under the fabric as you sew. Tear it away gently afterwards.
• Start on a scrap: first stitch onto a small spare piece of fabric, then carry on onto your piece without cutting the thread. This stops the machine from "swallowing" the start of the seam.
• Keep a light tension with your hands (without pulling!) in front of and behind the presser foot.

8. Finishes suited to silk

Silk edges fray quickly. Here are the best finishes:

• French seams: the best method for silk. Clean, neat, and completely hides the raw edges. Perfect for dresses and blouses.
• Fine overlocking: on the overlocker, with a fine, tight stitch.
• Rolled hem: for dress hems and scarves. By machine with a rolled hem foot, or by hand for a couture finish.
• Silk bias binding: for necklines and armholes.

Avoid: a basic zigzag, which distorts silk's fine edges.

9. Ironing silk

Silk and a hot iron don't get on. Golden rules:

• Temperature: "silk" setting or a low-temperature iron
• Never direct steam: steam can mark silk (water rings)
• Always press on the wrong side of the fabric
• Press cloth: place a fine cotton cloth between the iron and the silk
• Test: before pressing your project, test on a scrap

10. Store and care for your creation

Is your piece finished? Here's how to keep it beautiful:

• Hang it on a padded hanger (no clips that leave marks)
• Avoid contact with perfumes and deodorants (irreversible stains)
• Cleaning: dry cleaning for structured pieces, hand washing in cold water with a gentle shampoo for simple pieces
• Storage: keep it in a breathable garment bag, never in plastic

So Tissus silks

Our silks come straight from the surpluses of great French fashion houses. Crêpe de Chine, silk twill, satin, pongee… qualities usually reserved for professional workshops, available by the metre at prices up to 60% below the market.

Some of our most popular silks:

• 100% silk crêpe de Chine: fluid and versatile, ideal for dresses and blouses
• Printed silk twill: structured and elegant, perfect for skirts and scarves
• Silk satin: a luxurious sheen for formal creations

All our silk fabrics are available as swatches (€3) so you can judge the quality before you start.

Do you have a silk project and need advice? Send us a DM on Instagram @sotissus_com — Andy will be happy to help you choose your fabric.

Unfortunately, the fabric in the photo is no longer available. Discover our other silks here!

Discover our whole silk collection here!

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