Which fabric to sew a jacket? The complete guide

A jacket is the piece that gives an outfit its structure. It has to hold the shoulders, keep the shape of a lapel, not ripple at the back… and still be comfortable to wear all day. The same pattern will give you an office blazer, a rustic hunting jacket or a relaxed overshirt, depending on the fabric you choose.

Here is how to find your way.

The 4 criteria to check first

• Structure: a structured jacket (blazer, tailored jacket) needs a fabric that holds its shape on its own or with interfacing. A soft or unstructured jacket can make do with a more fluid fabric.
• Weight: 200 to 300 g/m² for a spring or autumn jacket, 300 to 450 g/m² for a winter jacket. Beyond that, you are entering coat territory.
• Season: wool, tweed and corduroy for winter, cotton canvas and linen for spring and summer.
• Your level: a plain, stable, non-slippery fabric is far more forgiving than a check to match or a fabric that frays.

The best fabrics for a jacket

1. Tweed — for a jacket with character

Warm and textured, with its flecked yarns, tweed gives instant style. It is easy to work, hides small sewing imperfections and ages beautifully. A flecked wool tweed looks just as good with jeans as with a skirt. To learn everything about this fabric, read our tweed guide.

2. Wool gabardine — for an impeccable blazer

Dense and crisp, it holds the fold of the lapels and hardly creases. It is the fabric of the classic tailored blazer. An ecru wool and cashmere gabardine makes a bright jacket that is easy to match.

3. Wool crepe — for a soft, elegant jacket

More fluid than gabardine, wool crepe drapes gently and creases little. It suits long jackets, collarless jackets and kimono jackets. A black Japanese wool crepe makes a jacket you can wear from the office to dinner.

4. Corduroy — for the autumn jacket

Warm and casual, corduroy makes hunting-style jackets and overshirts that are very easy to wear. Watch the direction of the pile: cut all the pieces in the same direction. A khaki Japanese corduroy is perfect for a seasonal jacket.

5. Wool flannel — for a warm, soft jacket

Lightly brushed, flannel is soft, warm and pleasant to sew. Plain for a sober look, or checked for a more British jacket, like this beige checked wool flannel. Remember to allow extra fabric to match the checks.

6. Cotton canvas — for workwear and in-between seasons

Sturdy, easy to wash and to sew, cotton canvas is ideal for a workwear-inspired jacket, a safari jacket or an overshirt. A navy cotton canvas recalls the work jackets of the past.

Which fabric for which style of jacket?

• Blazer, tailored jacket: wool gabardine, wool flannel
• Hunting jacket, English-style jacket: tweed, checked flannel
• Soft jacket, kimono, long jacket: wool crepe
• Overshirt: corduroy, flannel, cotton canvas
• Workwear jacket, safari jacket: cotton canvas, cotton gabardine
• Warm winter jacket: wool coating, heavy tweed

Our tips for sewing a jacket

• Pre-shrink before cutting: with a steam iron for wool, in the machine for cotton. A jacket that shrinks afterwards cannot be saved.
• Interface the right pieces: fronts, facings, collar and undercollar. Choose a fusible interfacing suited to the weight of the fabric, lighter than it.
• Make a toile to check the shoulder width and sleeve length: that is where the look and the comfort are decided.
• Ease in the sleeve caps with two rows of loose gathering stitches and a little steam, for a pucker-free sleeve head.
• Use the right needle: 80/12 for crepe, 90/14 for wool and corduroy, 100/16 for a heavy tweed.
• Line it: a viscose or satin lining makes the jacket easy to slip on and hides the seams.

Our advice to get started

For a first jacket, choose a pattern without a tailored collar (a straight jacket, an overshirt or a kimono jacket) and a plain, stable fabric: wool flannel, cotton canvas or corduroy. No checks to match, no slippery fabric: you can focus on setting in the sleeves and on the finishes. The lapelled blazer will come later. And if you are aiming for a winter garment, our guide which fabric to sew a coat takes over.

Ready to sew your jacket? Find our selection of wools on sotissus.com or discover them live on Instagram @sotissus_com!

Do you like the fabric in this article's cover photo? It's our flecked wool tweed — take a look!

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