Tweed: everything you need to know about this exceptional fabric

What is tweed?

Tweed is a thick, textured wool fabric, woven in a twill or plain weave, recognizable by its mottled appearance and mixed-color threads. Originating from Scotland and Ireland, it takes its name from the River Tweed, which flows between the two countries.

An emblematic fabric of the British countryside, tweed was reinvented by Coco Chanel in the 1920s to become a symbol of casual elegance. Since then, it embodies a discreet luxury that time does not diminish.

Why choose tweed for your sewing projects?

Tweed is a fabric with character. Its blend of colored fibers creates a unique visual depth — each tweed is almost a unique piece. It is warm, durable, and ages beautifully.

For seamstresses, tweed is a rewarding fabric: it holds its shape, cuts cleanly, and forgives small sewing imperfections thanks to its texture.

The different types of tweed

Harris Tweed — The most prestigious. Hand-woven in the Outer Hebrides (Scotland), certified by a protected label. Thick, robust, authentic.

Donegal Tweed — Originating from Ireland, recognizable by its colored knots (neps) scattered throughout the fabric. Finer than Harris.

Chanel Tweed — Haute couture reinterpretation of classic tweed. Lighter, often with metallic threads or silk, and frayed edges. The tweed of iconic jackets.

Blended Wool Tweed — More accessible wool/synthetic blend. Good drape, easier care.

What projects can you sew with tweed?

A Chanel jacket — The ultimate project. Chanel tweed with its braids and gold buttons is a timeless classic.

A short coat — Thick tweed is perfect for a structured autumn coat.

A pencil skirt — In mottled tweed, it's the stylish piece for your professional wardrobe.

A bag — Tweed scraps make beautiful bags and pouches.

Accessories — Beret, bow tie, belt... Tweed adds character to everything.

Our tips for sewing tweed

Needle: universal size 90 or 100 depending on thickness. Tweed is a sturdy fabric.

Thread: strong polyester. Cotton thread breaks too easily with the thickness of tweed.

Cutting: tweed frays a lot. Plan generous seam allowances and serge immediately after cutting.

Finishes: lining is mandatory for jackets and coats. Tweed can feel scratchy against the skin. Edges can be finished with bias tape or trim.

Tip: for a Chanel effect, fray the edges instead of serging them — the fringe makes all the charm.

How to care for tweed?

Washing: dry clean preferably. Machine washing deforms and felts tweed.

Air out: between wears, hang the garment outdoors. Wool tweed partially self-cleans.

Ironing: steam from a distance, never direct iron contact — it flattens the texture.

In summary

• Thick, textured wool fabric — mottled, unique, timeless
• Scottish and Irish origin, reinvented by Chanel
• Types: Harris (authentic), Donegal (neps), Chanel (haute couture)
• Perfect for: jackets, coats, skirts, bags, accessories
• Needle 90/100, serge immediately, line jackets
• Dry clean, steam from a distance

Find our selection of tweeds on sotissus.com.