Tweed: everything you need to know about this exceptional fabric

Thick, textured and heathered thanks to its mixed-colour yarns, tweed is a warm, structured and timeless woollen fabric. It's the signature of chic jackets, coats and suits, from the Chanel style to the British look. A noble fabric that needs a little care when sewing.

What is tweed?

Tweed is a thick, textured wool fabric, woven in a twill or plain weave, recognisable by its heathered look and mixed-colour yarns. Originally from Scotland and Ireland, it takes its name from the River Tweed.

An emblematic fabric of the British countryside, tweed was reinvented by Coco Chanel in the 1920s as a symbol of relaxed elegance. Since then, it has embodied a discreet luxury that never goes out of fashion.

Why choose tweed for your sewing projects?

Tweed is a fabric with character. Its blend of coloured fibres creates a unique visual depth — every tweed is almost one of a kind. It's warm, hard-wearing and ages beautifully.

For sewists, tweed is a rewarding fabric: it has body, cuts cleanly and forgives small sewing imperfections thanks to its texture.

The different types of tweed

Harris Tweed — The most prestigious. Handwoven in the Outer Hebrides (Scotland) and certified by a protected label. Thick, sturdy, authentic.

Donegal tweed — From Ireland, recognisable by the flecks of colour (neps) scattered through the fabric. Finer than Harris.

Chanel-style tweed — A haute couture reinterpretation of classic tweed. Lighter, often with metallic threads or silk, and fringed edges. The tweed of iconic jackets.

Wool-blend tweed — A more affordable wool/synthetic blend. Good body, easier care.

Tweed, bouclé or wool coating: how to tell them apart?

Three exceptional woollens, three different results.

What can you sew with tweed?

A Chanel-style jacket — The ultimate project. Tweed with braid trim and gold buttons is a timeless classic.

A short coat — Thick tweed is perfect for a structured autumn coat.

A pencil skirt — In heathered tweed, it's the stylish piece of a work wardrobe.

A bag — Tweed scraps make beautiful bags and clutches.

Accessories — Beret, bow tie, belt… Tweed gives character to everything.

Our tips for sewing tweed

Needle: universal size 90 or 100 depending on the thickness. Tweed is a sturdy fabric.

Thread: strong polyester. Cotton thread breaks too easily with the thickness of tweed.

Cutting: tweed frays a lot. Allow generous seam allowances and finish the edges immediately after cutting.

Finishes: a lining is a must for jackets and coats, as tweed is scratchy against the skin. Edges can be finished with bias binding or braid.

Tip: for a Chanel effect, fringe the edges instead of overlocking them — the fringe is what gives it all its charm.

How to care for tweed

Washing: dry cleaning is preferable. Machine washing distorts and felts tweed.

Airing: between wears, hang the garment in the open air. Wool tweed partly cleans itself.

Ironing: steam from a distance, never direct contact with the iron — it flattens the texture.

In summary

• A thick, textured wool fabric — heathered, unique, timeless
• Scottish and Irish origins, reinvented by Chanel
• Types: Harris (authentic), Donegal (neps), Chanel style (haute couture)
• Perfect for: jackets, coats, skirts, bags, accessories
• Needle 90/100, finish edges immediately, line jackets
• Dry cleaning, steam from a distance

Frequently asked questions about tweed

Does tweed fray a lot?

Yes, easily: finish all pieces as soon as they're cut, or use bound seams (Chanel style).

Which needle should you use to sew tweed?

A 90/14 or 100/16 needle depending on the thickness, with a slightly longer stitch.

Is tweed warm?

Yes: the thick wool and dense weave make it an excellent insulator for autumn and winter.

How do you care for tweed?

Dry cleaning is preferable, or a very gentle cold hand wash. Press with a press cloth.

Discover our selection of tweeds on sotissus.com.