Flannel: everything you need to know about this timeless fabric

What is flannel?

Flannel is a soft, slightly napped fabric, obtained by brushing the surface. Traditionally woven from wool, it also exists in cotton and synthetic blends. Its name is thought to come from the Welsh "gwlanen" (wool), indicating its British origins.

Popularized in the 17th century for underwear and work shirts, flannel has become a classic of the winter wardrobe — from Canadian plaid shirts to English tailored trousers.

Why choose flannel for your sewing projects?

Flannel combines warmth and lightness. Unlike thick wool broadcloth, it remains supple and comfortable to wear. Its soft feel makes it a pleasure fabric, as comfortable for pajamas as for a dressy jacket.

It is easy to sew, doesn't slip under the machine, and forgives small imperfections — a real delight for sewers of all levels.

Different types of flannel

Wool flannel — The most luxurious. Soft, warm, with a beautiful drape. This is what English suit trousers and blazers are made from. Available in light (shirts) and medium (suits) weights.

Cotton flannel — More accessible, slightly rougher. This is the flannel used for plaid shirts and pajamas. Easy to machine wash.

Blended flannel — Wool/polyester or cotton/synthetic. Combines the feel of natural flannel with the resistance of synthetic fibers.

What projects can you sew with flannel?

A shirt — The quintessential flannel project. In plaid cotton for a casual style, or plain wool for a dressier result.

Tailored trousers — Gray wool flannel is a great classic of both men's and women's wardrobes.

Pajamas — Cotton flannel brushed on both sides, guaranteed softness.

A-line skirt — Wool flannel has enough body for a structured skirt that hangs perfectly.

A scarf — Simple, quick, and so pleasant to wear.

Our tips for sewing flannel

Needle: universal size 80 for cotton flannel, 90 for wool flannel.

Thread: polyester or cotton depending on the fabric. Match the fiber of the thread to that of the fabric.

Cutting: pay attention to the direction of the nap. Always cut in the same direction to avoid variations in shade between pieces.

Seams: overcast the edges, flannel tends to fray.

Tip: pre-wash cotton flannel — it shrinks significantly after the first wash. Wool flannel, on the other hand, should be steam-shrunk.

How to care for flannel?

Cotton flannel: machine wash 30-40°C, air dry (tumble drying causes pilling).

Wool flannel: dry clean preferably, or hand wash in cold water with a wool detergent.

Ironing: medium iron with steam on the reverse side. Do not press too hard to avoid crushing the nap.

In summary

• Soft, napped fabric, warm without being heavy
• Available in wool (luxurious), cotton (accessible) and blends
• Easy to sew, ideal for all levels
• Perfect for: shirts, trousers, pajamas, skirts, scarves
• Pay attention to the direction of the nap when cutting
• Pre-wash cotton, steam-shrink wool

Find our selection of flannels on sotissus.com.