Guipure: everything you need to know about this raised lace
So TissusGuipure is a lace without a tulle base: its thick, raised motifs are linked together by fine bars. More structured than classic lace, it holds its shape on its own and is sold by the metre as a fabric or as a trim. It's the fabric of collars, yokes and dressy tops.
What is guipure?
In classic lace, the motifs sit on a sheer tulle base. In guipure, there is no base: the motifs are linked directly by small bridges of thread, called bars. So you can see the gaps between the flowers or geometric shapes.
Once made with a needle or bobbins, guipure is now most often embroidered onto a backing that is then dissolved. Only the embroidery remains, hence its relief and sculpted look. It's sometimes called chemical lace or Venetian lace.
It comes in cotton, polyester, viscose or blends, in one colour or two.
Why choose guipure for your sewing projects?
Guipure has body: it doesn't sag and keeps the shape of a collar or a yoke. Its thick motifs are opaque, so it can often be worn over a simple camisole, without a full lining.
It hardly frays and has no real grain. You can therefore cut along the motifs and use its edges as a finish.
The different types of guipure
Guipure by the metre — A full-width fabric for sewing an entire piece: top, dress, skirt.
Guipure trim — A narrow band a few centimetres wide, to edge a collar, a sleeve or a hem, or to highlight a waist.
Appliqué motifs — Individual flowers or medallions cut from guipure and sewn onto another fabric.
Geometric guipure — Circles, diamonds or arabesques instead of flowers, for a more graphic, modern look.
Stretch guipure — With an elastic yarn, it moves with you. Rarer, often as a trim.
Guipure, lace on tulle or broderie anglaise: what's the difference?
These three openwork fabrics are often confused, but they are made differently.
| Fabric | Structure | Hand | Body | Ideal for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Guipure | Motifs linked by bars, no base | Thick, raised | Structured, holds its shape | Collars, tops, yokes, trims |
| Lace on tulle | Fine motifs on a tulle base | Light, supple | Fluid, needs lining | Party dresses, sleeves, veils |
| Broderie anglaise | Embroidered cotton with eyelet holes | Crisp, fresh | Like a cotton cloth | Blouses, summer dresses, petticoats |
What can you sew with guipure?
A top or blouse — A simple, short cut, worn over a camisole or a bralette.
A yoke or insert — An upper back, a bib front or sleeves in guipure on a crepe or satin dress.
A detachable collar — Cut from a trim or guipure by the metre, to wear over a jumper or a dress.
A straight skirt — Lined with a matching or contrasting base to make the motifs stand out.
A trim finish — On a sleeve, hem or shorts, or to highlight a neckline: a guipure trim transforms a simple piece in minutes.
Our tips for sewing guipure
Place the motifs before cutting. Cut in a single layer, right side up. Centre a motif on the front and back, and check that the motifs fall the same way on both sides.
Cut around the motifs. On edges and necklines, cut following the outline of the motifs rather than in a straight line: the edge becomes its own finish.
Join by overlapping. Overlap the two pieces, sew with a narrow zigzag following the motifs, then trim the excess. The seam blends into the design.
Sew a trim flat. Pin it to the right side of the fabric, straight stitch along both edges, or use a narrow zigzag if it stretches. On a hem, place it astride the edge.
Adapt the needle. An 80/12 needle for most guipures, 90/14 for a thick cotton guipure. If you cut a bar by mistake, secure it with a few hand stitches.
How to care for guipure
Wash guipure by hand, at 30 °C maximum, with a gentle detergent. A cotton guipure can go in the machine on a delicate cycle, in a laundry bag.
Don't wring it and dry it flat. Press on the wrong side, on a thick towel, so as not to flatten the raised motifs.
In summary
- A lace without a tulle base, with motifs linked by bars
- Thick and raised, it holds its shape on its own
- By the metre, as a trim or as appliqué motifs
- Perfect for: tops, collars, yokes, skirts, finishes
- Cut in a single layer around the motifs, 80/12 needle
- Gentle wash at 30 °C, press on the wrong side on a towel
Frequently asked questions about guipure
What's the difference between guipure and lace?
Classic lace has a tulle base on which the motifs sit. Guipure has no base: its motifs are linked by bars, which makes it thicker and more structured.
Does guipure need lining?
Not always. Its motifs are opaque: a guipure top can be worn over a simple camisole. For a dress or a skirt, a matching or contrasting base is better.
How do you sew a guipure trim?
Pin it to the right side of the fabric and straight stitch along both edges, or use a narrow zigzag if it stretches.
Can you iron guipure?
Yes, on the wrong side and at a low temperature, laying the guipure on a thick towel so as not to flatten the relief.
Discover our selection of guipures and laces on sotissus.com.
