Jacquard: everything you need to know about this woven-pattern fabric

What is jacquard?

Jacquard is a fabric whose patterns are woven directly into the warp and weft, unlike printed fabrics where the pattern is applied to the surface. This technique, invented by Joseph-Marie Jacquard in 1801 using a revolutionary punch-card loom, allows for the creation of complex patterns—floral, geometric, figurative—with remarkable precision and durability.

The result: a fabric where the pattern never fades because it is an integral part of the fabric's structure.

Why choose jacquard?

Jacquard is a noble fabric that impresses with its visual richness. The woven pattern has a relief that printing can never reproduce. It is a fabric that says "quality" at first glance.

Its versatility is also an asset: depending on the fiber used (silk, cotton, polyester), jacquard can be light and fluid or thick and structured. It is suitable for both clothing and upholstery.

Different types of jacquard

Silk jacquard — The most prestigious. Refined patterns, natural sheen, luxurious feel. This is the jacquard for evening gowns and kimonos.

Cotton jacquard — More accessible and easier to care for. Ideal for summer jackets, skirts, and accessories.

Brocade — A type of jacquard where metallic threads (gold, silver) are woven into the pattern. The fabric of ceremonial attire and historical costumes.

Damask — Monochrome jacquard where the pattern appears through the interplay of matte and shiny surfaces. Classic for household linen and elegant jackets.

Stretch jacquard — With added elastane for comfort. Works well for form-fitting dresses and trousers.

What projects to sew with jacquard?

A structured jacket — Jacquard has the ideal body for a fitted jacket that maintains its shape.

A cocktail dress — Woven patterns give an effortless luxurious dimension to a simple dress.

An A-line skirt — Jacquard holds its volume, perfect for a flared skirt.

A bag or pouch — The strength of jacquard makes it an excellent fabric for textile leather goods.

Cushions — Jacquard is also a classic in home furnishings. A silk jacquard cushion transforms a sofa.

Our tips for sewing jacquard

Needle: universal size 80 or 90 depending on thickness. For silk jacquard, a Microtex 80 will be more delicate.

Thread: polyester or silk, matching the dominant color of the pattern.

Cutting: pay attention to pattern matching between pieces. Pin pattern pieces to align motifs before cutting—just like with plaid fabric.

Seams: overcast the edges, jacquard tends to fray. A serger is your ally.

Tip: if your jacquard has metallic threads (brocade), use a denim or jeans needle—metallic threads quickly wear out standard needles.

How to care for jacquard?

Silk jacquard/brocade: dry clean only.

Cotton jacquard: machine wash 30°C delicate cycle, inside out.

Ironing: always on the reverse side to avoid flattening the raised patterns. Medium iron with steam.

In summary

• Fabric with patterns directly woven into the warp and weft—durable and textured
• Invented in 1801 by Jacquard, perfected since
• Types: silk (luxury), cotton (accessible), brocade (metallic threads), damask (monochrome)
• Perfect for: jackets, cocktail dresses, skirts, bags, upholstery
• Carefully match patterns when cutting, overcast edges
• Silk: dry cleaning. Cotton: machine wash 30°C

Find our selection of jacquard fabrics on sotissus.com.