Jacquard: everything you need to know about this woven-pattern fabric
L'équipe So TissusRich and textured, jacquard is not a fibre but a weaving technique: the patterns are woven into the cloth rather than printed, visible on both sides and very durable. It dresses dresses, jackets and formal pieces with an elegant relief, in cotton, silk, polyester or blends.
What is jacquard?
Jacquard is a fabric whose patterns are woven directly into the weave, unlike printed fabrics where the pattern is applied to the surface. This technique, invented by Joseph-Marie Jacquard in 1801 with a revolutionary loom using punched cards, makes it possible to create complex patterns — floral, geometric, figurative — with remarkable precision and durability.
The result: a fabric whose pattern never fades, because it is an integral part of the fabric's structure.
Why choose jacquard?
Jacquard is a noble fabric that impresses with its visual richness. A woven pattern has a relief that printing can never reproduce. It's a fabric that says "quality" at first glance.
Its versatility is another strength: depending on the fibre (silk, cotton, polyester), jacquard can be light and fluid or thick and structured. It suits both clothing and home furnishings.
The different types of jacquard
Silk jacquard — The most prestigious. Refined patterns, natural sheen, luxurious hand. The jacquard of evening dresses and kimonos.
Cotton jacquard — More affordable and easier to care for. Ideal for summer jackets, skirts and accessories.
Brocade — A type of jacquard in which metallic threads (gold, silver) are woven into the pattern. The fabric of ceremonial outfits and period costumes.
Damask — A single-colour jacquard where the pattern appears through the play of matte and shiny surfaces. A classic for household linen and dressy jackets.
Stretch jacquard — With added elastane for comfort. Works well for fitted dresses and trousers.
Jacquard, brocade or damask: what's the difference?
Three fabrics with woven patterns, from the most understated to the most precious.
| Fabric | Pattern | Look | Ideal for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jacquard | Woven into the cloth | Textured, matte or satiny | Dresses, jackets, furnishings |
| Brocade | Woven + metallic threads | Rich, shiny, raised | Ceremonial outfits, formal wear |
| Damask | Woven tone on tone | Subtle, reversible | Tablecloths, refined dresses |
What can you sew with jacquard?
A structured jacket — Jacquard has the ideal body for a fitted jacket that holds its shape.
A cocktail dress — Woven patterns effortlessly give a simple dress a luxurious dimension.
An A-line skirt — Jacquard holds volume, perfect for a flared skirt.
A bag or clutch — Jacquard's strength makes it an excellent fabric for textile bags.
Cushions — Jacquard is also a furnishing classic. A silk jacquard cushion transforms a sofa.
Our tips for sewing jacquard
Needle: universal size 80 or 90 depending on the thickness. For silk jacquard, a Microtex 80 is gentler.
Thread: polyester or silk, matched to the dominant colour of the pattern.
Cutting: pay attention to matching the pattern between pieces. Pin the pattern pieces to align the motifs before cutting — just as with checked fabric.
Seams: finish the edges, as jacquard tends to fray. The overlocker is your friend.
Tip: if your jacquard has metallic threads (brocade), use a denim/jeans needle — metallic threads wear out standard needles quickly.
How to care for jacquard
Silk jacquard/brocade: dry clean only.
Cotton jacquard: machine wash at 30 °C on a delicate cycle, inside out.
Ironing: always on the wrong side so as not to flatten the raised patterns. Medium iron with steam.
In summary
- A fabric with patterns woven directly into the weave — durable and textured
- Invented in 1801 by Jacquard, refined ever since
- Types: silk (luxury), cotton (affordable), brocade (metallic threads), damask (single colour)
- Perfect for: jackets, cocktail dresses, skirts, bags, furnishings
- Match the patterns carefully when cutting, finish the edges
- Silk: dry cleaning. Cotton: machine at 30 °C
Frequently asked questions about jacquard
What's the difference between woven jacquard and a print?
A jacquard pattern is woven into the cloth (visible on the reverse, raised), whereas a print sits on the surface. Jacquard is more durable and more structured.
Is jacquard difficult to sew?
No, it's fairly stable. Finish the edges (it can fray) and follow the direction of the pattern when cutting.
Which needle should you use to sew jacquard?
A universal 80/12 to 90/14 needle depending on the thickness.
How do you care for jacquard?
It depends on the fibre: delicate wash at 30 °C for cotton and polyester, dry cleaning for silk. Iron on the wrong side.
Discover our selection of jacquards on sotissus.com.
