Taking your measurements properly: the basics before cutting your fabric
L'équipe So TissusTaking your measurements is the step everyone wants to skip to get straight to sewing. And that's often where the problems start: a dress too tight at the hips, trousers too long, an armhole that pulls… 10 minutes of carefully taken measurements will save you hours of alterations.
The essential kit
- A soft tape measure (not a DIY tape measure!)
- A full-length mirror if you're measuring yourself
- A thin piece of elastic to tie around your waist to find your natural waistline
- A notebook to write down all your measurements (or your phone)
- Wear close-fitting underwear, with no thick clothes on top
The essential measurements
Bust
Pass the tape measure around the fullest part of the bust, under the arms and across the shoulder blades. The tape should be horizontal and not too tight (you should be able to slip a finger underneath).
Waist
Tie a piece of elastic around your waist and move around a little — it will naturally settle in the right place (the narrowest part of the waist). Measure there.
Note: your natural waist isn't necessarily where you wear your jeans! It's usually higher.
Hips
Measure at the widest point of the hips/bottom. Keep the tape level.
High hip
About 20 cm below the waist. It's the key measurement for skirts and trousers.
Front length
From the base of the neck at the shoulder down to the waist, passing over the bust point.
Back length
From the cervical vertebra (the bump at the top of your back when you bend your head) down to the waist.
Back width
From one armhole to the other, across the back. Measure about 10 cm below the nape of the neck.
Arm length
From the shoulder to the wrist, with the arm slightly bent. Measure over the elbow.
Upper arm
Around the fullest part of the arm (the bicep).
Inside leg
From the crotch to the floor. Measure barefoot, standing up straight.
The most common mistakes
Pulling the tape too tight
This is mistake number one. We all want to "cheat" a little, but a tape that's too tight gives measurements that are too small and a garment that's uncomfortable. The tape should skim the body without compressing it.
Measuring yourself alone in front of the mirror
It's possible but less accurate. If you can ask someone to help, it's always better — especially for back measurements.
Forgetting ease
Your body measurements ≠ the garment measurements. You need to add ease (room to move). Most patterns already include ease, but always check.
| Type of garment | Bust ease | Hip ease |
|---|---|---|
| Very fitted (bodycon dress) | 0 to 2 cm | 0 to 2 cm |
| Fitted (blouse) | 5 to 8 cm | 4 to 6 cm |
| Comfortable (shift dress) | 8 to 12 cm | 6 to 10 cm |
| Loose (coat) | 12 to 20 cm | 10 to 15 cm |
Not re-measuring
Your body changes! Take your measurements again for each new project, especially if a few months have passed.
How to use your measurements with a pattern
- Compare your measurements with the pattern's size chart (not with your ready-to-wear size!)
- If you're between two sizes, choose the larger size — it's easier to take fabric away than to add it
- If your measurements correspond to different sizes (e.g. 38 at the bust, 40 at the hips), grade between sizes by drawing a gradual line between the two
- Make a toile (a test version in inexpensive fabric) for important projects
Ready to start? Discover our fabrics on sotissus.com and find the perfect material for your next project. Any questions? Write to us on Instagram @sotissus_com!
Do you like the fabric in this article's cover photo? It's our beige cashmere suiting — take a look!
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