Understanding fabric compositions: natural vs synthetic fibres
L'équipe So Tissus100% polyester, 70% viscose 30% linen, 95% cotton 5% elastane... Composition labels can seem confusing. Yet understanding what your fabric contains is essential for sewing it well, caring for it properly and achieving the result you have in mind.
Natural fibres
Cotton
The most widely used fibre in the world. Soft, breathable, easy to sew and care for.
- Advantages: comfortable, absorbs moisture, withstands high washing and ironing temperatures
- Disadvantages: can shrink, wrinkles easily, dries slowly
- Varieties: poplin (shirts), gabardine (trousers), jersey (t-shirts), denim (jeans), velvet
- Care: wash at 30-40°C, iron on high
Linen
The noble fibre par excellence, grown mainly in France and Belgium.
- Advantages: thermoregulating, hard-wearing, eco-friendly (low water and pesticide use), improves with age
- Disadvantages: wrinkles a lot (but that is part of its charm!), can feel stiff at first
- Ideal for: shirts, trousers, summer dresses, tablecloths
- Care: wash at 40°C, iron while damp at high temperature
Silk
The queen of fibres. Luxurious, lustrous, incredibly soft.
- Advantages: exceptional drape, natural sheen, thermoregulating, hypoallergenic
- Disadvantages: fragile, water spots, difficult to sew, expensive (except on clearance!)
- Varieties: crêpe de Chine, satin, chiffon, organza, taffeta
- Care: hand wash or dry clean, iron on low
Wool
Warm, elegant, available in a wide variety of weights and textures.
- Advantages: insulating, naturally elastic, hard-wearing, absorbs moisture without feeling wet
- Disadvantages: can felt when washed, moth-sensitive, may be scratchy (depending on quality)
- Varieties: flannel, tweed, gabardine, wool crepe, broadcloth
- Care: cold wash or dry clean, dry flat
Synthetic and man-made fibres
Polyester
The most common synthetic fibre. Often blended with other fibres for added durability.
- Advantages: wrinkle-resistant, dries quickly, hard-wearing, affordable
- Disadvantages: not breathable, can cause sweating, sometimes looks "plasticky"
- Sewing tip: be careful when ironing — low temperature only!
Viscose / Rayon
A man-made fibre produced from wood cellulose. It is the best compromise between natural and synthetic.
- Advantages: fluid drape (similar to silk), soft, breathable, affordable
- Disadvantages: wrinkles, shrinks when washed, fragile when wet
- Ideal for: dresses, blouses, flowy skirts
- Tip: wash your viscose BEFORE cutting — it shrinks a lot on the first wash
Elastane (Lycra/Spandex)
Never used alone, always blended (2-5% is enough) to add stretch.
- 5% elastane in cotton = stretch comfort for jeans
- Sewing tip: use a stretch needle and a zigzag stitch or stretch stitch
Blends: the best of both worlds
Fibre blends combine the advantages of each component:
| Blend | What it adds | Ideal for |
|---|---|---|
| Cotton + linen | Less wrinkling than pure linen | Shirts, summer dresses |
| Cotton + elastane | Stretch comfort | Jeans, trousers |
| Wool + polyester | Less felting, more durable | Coats, suits |
| Silk + viscose | The drape of silk, more affordable | Dresses, blouses |
| Polyester + viscose | Fluid and wrinkle-free | Workwear |
How to read a composition label
- The fibre listed first is the dominant one
- The higher the percentage of natural fibre, the more comfortable the fabric will be to wear
- A "100% polyester" fabric may drape well but will not breathe
- "Viscose" and "rayon" mean the same thing
At So Tissus, we favour noble fibres: silk, wool, linen, quality cotton. Discover our designer clearance fabrics at sotissus.com.
