Twill: everything you need to know about the diagonal weave
So TissusTwill (called sergé in French) is a fabric you can recognise by its fine diagonal ribs, created by the way it is woven. Supple, hard-wearing and with a beautiful drape, it comes in silk, cotton, wool or viscose. Gabardine, denim and chino are all twills.
What is twill?
Twill is not a fibre but a weave. The weft yarn passes over one or more warp yarns, then under two or more, shifting by one yarn on each row. This offset draws the oblique lines typical of twill, clearly visible on the right side.
Depending on how many yarns are skipped, you get more or less pronounced twills: 2/1, 2/2 or 3/1. The bigger the skip, the sharper the diagonal and the softer the fabric.
Because it is a weave and not a fibre, twill exists in every material: silk, cotton, wool, linen, viscose or blends.
Why choose twill for your sewing projects?
Its tight weave makes twill hard-wearing and practical: the diagonal hides small stains and creases. Yet it has a supple hand and a more fluid drape than a plain weave of the same weight.
It's a very versatile fabric: light in silk for a scarf or a blouse, heavier in cotton or wool for trousers or a jacket.
The different types of twill
Silk twill — Light, luminous and fluid (60 to 90 g/m²). The fabric of scarves and dressy blouses.
Viscose twill — Supple and drapey (120 to 160 g/m²), often printed. Ideal for dresses and wide-leg trousers.
Cotton twill — Sturdy and easy-care (200 to 300 g/m²). Used for chinos, jackets and skirts.
Gabardine — A very tight twill with a steep diagonal, in wool or cotton. Sometimes treated to be water-repellent, it's the fabric of trench coats.
Wool twill — Crisp with good body, it holds a crease well. Perfect for tailored trousers.
Denim — A 3/1 cotton twill with a dyed warp (often blue) and an undyed weft, hence its pale reverse side.
Herringbone — A twill whose diagonal changes direction at regular intervals, forming "V" shapes.
Silk twill, gabardine or denim: what's the difference?
All three are twills, but they differ in both fibre and use.
| Fabric | Composition | Hand | Weight | Ideal for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Silk twill | Silk | Fluid, soft, luminous | 60 to 90 g/m² | Scarves, blouses, light dresses |
| Gabardine | Wool or cotton, very tight weave | Smooth, crisp, sometimes water-repellent | 180 to 280 g/m² | Trench coats, trousers, jackets |
| Denim | Cotton, dyed warp | Stiff, then softens | 300 to 450 g/m² | Jeans, jackets, skirts |
What can you sew with twill?
Trousers — Wool twill for tailored trousers, cotton twill for chinos, viscose twill for a wide, fluid style.
A trench coat or in-between-season jacket — In gabardine, ideally water-repellent.
A scarf — In silk twill, with a hand- or machine-rolled hem.
A blouse or a dress — In silk or viscose twill, for a lovely drape without transparency.
A skirt — In cotton or wool twill, which holds its shape well.
Our tips for sewing twill
Wash before cutting. Cotton and viscose twill can shrink. Wash it the way you will wash the finished garment, then press it.
Cut all pieces in the same direction. The twill diagonal must run the same way across the whole garment, otherwise the pieces won't match. For herringbone or checks, allow extra fabric for matching.
Choose the right needle. A microtex 60/8 or 70/10 needle for silk twill, 80/12 for viscose twill, 90/14 for cotton twill and gabardine, 100/16 for heavy denim.
Stabilise silk twill. It slips: cut it in a single layer, on a sheet of paper, using weights rather than pins.
Take care with the finishes. Twill frays a little. Overlock, French seams on silk, or flat-felled seams on cotton trousers.
How to care for twill
Care depends on the fibre. Cotton twill is machine washable at 30 or 40 °C. Viscose twill is washed at 30 °C on a delicate cycle and dried flat. Wool twill and gabardine go on the wool programme at 30 °C or to the dry cleaner. Silk twill is washed by hand in cold water.
Press on the wrong side, at a temperature suited to the fibre, so the ribs don't go shiny.
In summary
- Twill is a weave, recognisable by its diagonal ribs
- It comes in silk, cotton, wool, linen, viscose
- Gabardine, denim and herringbone are twills
- Perfect for: trousers, trench coats, scarves, blouses, skirts
- Cut all pieces in the same direction, needle 60/8 to 100/16
- Wash cotton and viscose before cutting
Frequently asked questions about twill
Is "sergé" the same as twill?
Yes: sergé is the French word, twill the English one. Both refer to the same weave with diagonal ribs.
Is gabardine a twill?
Yes. Gabardine is a very tight twill with a steep diagonal, in wool or cotton. That's what makes it hard-wearing and sometimes water-repellent.
Does twill crease?
Less than a plain weave of the same weight. Its diagonal hides creases, especially in wool and viscose. Linen twill, however, still creases quite easily.
Which twill should you choose for trousers?
A wool twill for tailored trousers, a cotton twill for chinos, a viscose twill for wide, fluid trousers.
Discover our selection of twills on sotissus.com.
