Which fabric to sew a coat? The complete guide

Sewing your own coat is often the big project of the autumn. You'll wear it every day for five months and keep it for years, so it's worth choosing the right fabric. And the fabric makes all the difference. The same pattern will give a classic coat in wool coating, a light trench in gabardine or a jacket full of character in tweed.

Here's how to choose.

The 4 criteria to check first

• Warmth: for a real winter coat, aim for a dense wool of 400 to 600 g/m². For the in-between season, 250 to 400 g/m² is enough.
• Structure: a coat must hold its shape at the shoulders and collar. A fabric that is too soft will sag as you wear it.
• Composition: the more wool, the warmer and more breathable the coat. A little polyamide or cashmere adds strength or softness.
• Yardage: generally allow 2.5 to 3.5 m in 140 cm width for a long coat, a little less for a pea coat. Always check your pattern, and allow extra for a checked fabric.

The best fabrics for a coat

1. Wool coating — the safe choice

This is the coat fabric par excellence. Dense and slightly felted on the surface, it blocks the wind and keeps in the warmth. It responds beautifully to the steam iron, which helps you shape a lovely collar. A heathered dark grey wool coating will make a classic coat that goes with everything.

Fancy a pattern? A Prince of Wales check wool coating instantly gives a tailored look. Just remember to match the checks when cutting.

2. Wool and cashmere blend — for softness

Cashmere added to wool gives a very soft hand and a beautiful drape, without losing any warmth. It's the fabric of coats you just want to stroke. Our khaki brushed wool and cashmere coating is a good example: its brushed surface gives it a velvety look.

For a lighter, more fluid coat, a beige cashmere suiting works well for straight cuts and in-between-season coats.

3. Tweed — for a jacket with character

Woven from carded wool, tweed has texture, heathered yarns and often checks or herringbone. It's ideal for a short jacket, a pea coat or a British-inspired coat. A flecked heathered grey wool tweed remains easy to wear every day.

4. Gabardine — for a trench coat

A trench coat isn't sewn in thick wool but in gabardine: a tight diagonal weave, supple and hard-wearing. It's the coat for the in-between season, from September to November and again in spring. A small-check waterproof gabardine also protects you from showers.

5. Boiled wool — for beginners

Boiled wool is felted during manufacture. The result: it doesn't fray. You can leave the edges raw, which makes construction much simpler. It's the right choice for a first unlined coat or a cape.

Which fabric for which style of coat?

• Classic long coat: wool coating
• Soft, dressy coat: wool and cashmere
• Pea coat or short jacket: wool coating or tweed
• Trench coat: gabardine
• Cape or unlined coat: boiled wool
• In-between-season coat: cashmere suiting or light wool coating

What about the lining?

It's more than a finishing touch. The lining lets the coat slide over a jumper, hides the seams and adds a layer of warmth. Choose a smooth, breathable fabric: a viscose or cupro lining is ideal, a satin or silk twill for an exceptional coat. Avoid cheap 100% polyester linings, which make you sweat.

If you'd rather skip the lining, choose a boiled wool, or finish the inside seams neatly with bias binding.

Our tips for sewing a coat

• Pre-shrink the wool before cutting: steam the whole length with the iron, without pressing down, then let it dry flat.
• Cut with the nap: on wool coating, the shade changes depending on the direction. All pieces must go the same way.
• Interface the key areas: collar, facings, lapels and sleeve hems. That's what gives a coat that holds its shape.
• Use a 90/14 or 100/16 needle and lengthen the stitch (3 to 3.5 mm) on thick fabrics.
• Press at every step with a press cloth, so the wool doesn't go shiny.

Our advice for getting started

For a first coat, choose a plain wool coating in a neutral colour, and a pattern without a tailored collar (a round or stand collar). No checks to match, no lapels to shape: you can focus on the essentials. Once this first coat is hanging in your wardrobe, tweed and cashmere will hold no more secrets.

Ready to sew your coat? Discover our selection of wool fabrics on sotissus.com or see them live on Instagram @sotissus_com!

Do you like the fabric in this article's cover photo? It's our khaki brushed wool and cashmere coating — take a look!

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