Cool Wool: Everything You Need to Know About This Underrated Fabric

It's THE question we get asked most often during our live sessions: "What is cool wool?" And we totally understand the confusion — the word "wool" immediately brings to mind winter, thick sweaters and warm scarves. So a wool you can wear in summer? It sounds contradictory. And yet.

What exactly is cool wool?

Cool wool is a fine, lightweight and breathable wool, woven in a way that allows air to pass through. Unlike classic wool (thick, felted, insulating), cool wool is designed to be worn in warm weather — from spring right through to the end of summer.

Its secret? The weave. The wool threads are woven very finely, with an open weave that allows air circulation. The fabric is light, fluid, and doesn't stick to the skin. It's exactly the same principle as linen: a natural fibre that breathes.

Why it's an exceptional fabric

• Temperature-regulating: wool naturally regulates body temperature. It absorbs moisture without feeling clammy. You stay cool when it's hot.
• Wrinkle-resistant: unlike linen or cotton, cool wool barely wrinkles. You can wear it all day, sit down, travel — it stays impeccable.
• Elegant drape: cool wool has a naturally fluid yet structured drape. That's why it's found in high-end suits and tailored outfits.
• Durable: wool fibre is naturally resilient. A well-maintained cool wool garment lasts for years.
• Odour-resistant: wool has natural antibacterial properties. It absorbs perspiration without retaining odours.

The different types of cool wool

There isn't just one type of cool wool. Depending on the weave and finish, it can take very different forms:

• Classic plain: fine, matte, impeccable drape. The go-to fabric for suit trousers and tailored outfits.
• Piqué: slightly textured surface with a raised pattern. More character than a plain, while remaining understated.
• Stretch: with a small percentage of elastane for comfort and freedom of movement. Ideal for fitted pieces.
• Patterned: Prince of Wales check, houndstooth, tennis stripes... The great classics of chic dressing, revisited.
• Waterproof: yes, it exists! A bonded cool wool that repels water. Perfect for a trench coat or mid-season jacket.
• Embroidered or flocked: for more original pieces — a raised pattern or flocking that adds volume to the fabric.

What to sew with cool wool?

It's a very versatile fabric. Here are the projects that work best:

• Dress trousers or palazzo pants: the ultimate classic. The drape is perfect and the fabric doesn't crease.
• Blazer or jacket: natural structure, no need for heavy interfacing.
• Pencil skirt or midi skirt: guaranteed elegance, zero creases.
• Wrap dress: the fluidity of cool wool is perfect for this style.
• Dressy shorts: yes, in cool wool! Perfect for summer with a beautiful drape.
• Trench coat or lightweight coat: especially with the waterproof version.

How to care for cool wool?

• Washing: by hand or machine on wool/delicate cycle, cold water, gentle spin.
• Drying: flat, never in the tumble dryer.
• Ironing: rarely needed. If necessary, low heat with a pressing cloth (a damp cloth between the iron and the wool).
• Tip: hang your garment in the bathroom during a hot shower — the steam naturally removes wrinkles from wool.

Sewing tips

• Needle: fine needle (70/80) to avoid marking the fabric.
• Thread: standard polyester thread, matching colour.
• Cutting: cool wool cuts easily. Use sharp scissors and pin well — the fabric can slip slightly.
• Seams: overlock or use a zigzag stitch as wool can fray.
• Lining: recommended for skirts and trousers (comfort + professional finish).

Want to sew with cool wool? Browse our selection of cool wools at sotissus.com or discover them live on Instagram @sotissus_com!

Love the fabric in the cover photo of this article? It's our cool wool houndstooth effect black and white — check it out!

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