Which fabric to sew trousers? The complete guide

Trousers are the garment you wear most often, and the one that forgives a poor choice of fabric the least. Too thin, they show every line and bag at the knees. Too stiff, they're uncomfortable when you sit. Too fluid, they lose their line. The same pattern will give impeccable tailored trousers, relaxed chinos or very soft wide-leg trousers, depending on the fabric you choose.

Here's how to choose.

The 4 criteria to check first

• Structure: straight or tailored trousers need a fabric that holds its shape. Wide-leg or palazzo trousers, on the other hand, need fluidity.
• Weight: 150 to 250 g/m² for fluid or summer trousers, 250 to 350 g/m² for winter trousers with body.
• Stretch: 2 to 3% elastane adds comfort to a fitted style. Check whether your pattern requires it.
• Season: wool and corduroy for winter, linen and viscose for summer, cotton twill all year round.

The best fabrics for trousers

1. Wool flannel — for winter tailored trousers

Warm, supple and lightly brushed, flannel drapes perfectly and holds a pressed crease. It's the fabric of classic tailored trousers. A charcoal grey wool flannel goes with everything. For more character, a houndstooth wool flannel makes the whole outfit.

2. Wool twill — for crisp trousers all year round

Finer and drier than flannel, wool twill keeps an impeccable crease and can be worn from autumn to spring. A black wool twill is the foundation of a smart wardrobe.

3. Cotton twill — for relaxed chinos

Sturdy, easy to sew and to wash, cotton twill is the chino fabric. With a little linen, it becomes cooler for the in-between season: our beige cotton and linen twill is a good example.

4. Wool crepe — for fluid, dressy trousers

Wool crepe has a slightly grainy texture and a soft drape, and it doesn't crease. Perfect for wide-leg or pleated trousers with movement. A black Japanese wool crepe will make trousers for the evening as well as the office.

5. Corduroy — for relaxed winter trousers

Warm and comfortable, corduroy is the autumn trouser fabric par excellence. Watch the nap: all pieces must be cut in the same direction. Our khaki Japanese corduroy is one of the key pieces of the season.

6. Viscose twill — for wide, soft trousers

Fluid, drapey and pleasant to wear, viscose twill suits wide-leg, palazzo or elastic-waist trousers. A dark blue-grey viscose twill stays understated and easy to match.

Which fabric for which style of trousers?

• Tailored trousers: wool flannel or wool twill
• Chinos: cotton twill, cotton and linen
• Wide-leg or pleated trousers: wool crepe, viscose twill
• Palazzo or elastic waist: viscose twill, crepe
• Relaxed winter trousers: corduroy
• Summer trousers: linen, cotton and linen

Our tips for sewing trousers

• Wash or pre-shrink before cutting: in the machine for cotton and viscose, with the steam iron for wool.
• Follow the grain: a leg cut off-grain will twist as you wear it. Carefully align the crease line with the straight grain.
• Make a toile if it's your first pair of trousers: the crotch is the area that needs the most adjustments.
• Use the right needle: 80/12 for viscose and crepe, 90/14 for wool and cotton twill.
• Press the crease with a press cloth on wool: it will last all day.

Our advice for getting started

For your first trousers, choose a plain cotton twill or wool twill of 200 to 280 g/m², and a pattern with an elastic waist or pleats without a fly. No pattern to match, no slippery fabric: you can focus on the fit. Once you've mastered this first pair, flannel and wool crepe will open the door to tailoring.

Ready to sew your trousers? Discover our selection of twills on sotissus.com or see them live on Instagram @sotissus_com!

Do you like the fabric in this article's cover photo? It's our black and white houndstooth wool flannel — take a look!

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