How to sew silk: 10 tips for a perfect result

Silk is the queen of fabrics. Fluid, luminous, noble to the touch... but also dreaded by many sewists. It slips, it frays, it marks under the iron. Yet with the right techniques, sewing silk is perfectly achievable, even if you're not an expert.

At So Tissus, we regularly offer exceptional silks from leading French couture houses: crêpe de chine, satin, twill, pongee... Here are our 10 tips to make the most of them.

1. Wash (or not) your silk before cutting

Natural silk can shrink 3 to 5% on its first wash. Two options:

• If you plan to wash your creation: pre-wash the fabric by hand in lukewarm water with a gentle shampoo, then dry flat. Cut afterwards.
• If you plan to dry clean: don't pre-wash, cut directly.

So Tissus tip: order a sample, wash it, and compare with the unwashed fabric to measure the exact shrinkage.

2. Use the right cutting tools

Silk is fine and slippery. Your tools make all the difference:

• Scissors: use very sharp sewing scissors. Dull scissors will "chew" the silk.
• Rotary cutter: even better than scissors for straight cuts. Use it with a cutting mat.
• Pins: opt for extra-fine pins (silk pins) or, even better, sewing clips to avoid visible holes.

3. The tissue paper technique for cutting

This is THE secret of professionals:

1. Place a layer of tissue paper (wrapping paper, not the fabric!) on your work surface
2. Place your silk on top
3. Place a second layer of tissue paper over it
4. Pin your pattern pieces through all 3 layers
5. Cut through everything together

The tissue paper prevents the fabric from slipping and ensures a clean cut. It's magical.

4. Choose the right machine needle

The needle does 80% of the work:

• Type: Microtex needle (sharp point) or silk needle
• Size: 60 or 70 maximum. A needle that's too large will punch visible holes.
• Condition: use a NEW needle. A worn needle will snag the delicate silk fibres.

Change your needle after every silk project.

5. Adjust your sewing machine settings

Standard settings don't suit silk:

• Stitch length: 2.0 to 2.5 mm (shorter than the usual 3.0 mm)
• Thread tension: reduce slightly (test on a scrap)
• Presser foot: use a smooth-soled foot or a Teflon foot
• Foot pressure: lighten if your machine allows it

Mandatory test: always sew on a fabric scrap before starting your project. Adjust tension and stitch length until you get a flat, even seam.

6. Use the right thread

• Silk thread: the ideal choice, it perfectly matches the fabric
• Fine polyester thread: an acceptable alternative (such as Gutermann Sew-All in 100)
• Avoid: basic cotton thread, which is too stiff for silk

7. Stabilise the seams

Silk tends to get "eaten" under the presser foot. To prevent this:

• Place tissue paper under the fabric when sewing. Tear it away gently afterwards.
• Start on a stabiliser: sew first on a small piece of scrap fabric, then continue onto your piece without cutting the thread. This prevents the machine from "swallowing" the start of the seam.
• Maintain light tension with your hands (without pulling!) in front of and behind the presser foot.

8. Finishing techniques suited to silk

Silk edges fray quickly. Here are the best finishing methods:

• French seams (enclosed seams): the gold standard for silk. Clean, neat, and completely hides raw edges. Perfect for dresses and blouses.
• Fine overlock: on a serger, use a fine, tight overlock stitch.
• Rolled hem: for dress hems and scarves. By machine with a rolled hem foot, or by hand for a haute couture finish.
• Silk bias binding: for necklines and armholes.

Avoid: basic zigzag stitch which distorts the fine edges of silk.

9. Pressing silk

Silk and a hot iron don't mix well. Golden rules:

• Temperature: "silk" setting or low temperature iron
• Never use direct steam: steam can stain silk (water marks)
• Always press on the wrong side of the fabric
• Press cloth: place a thin cotton cloth between the iron and the silk
• Test: before pressing your project, test on a scrap

10. Store and care for your creation

Your piece is finished? Here's how to keep it beautiful:

• Hang on a padded hanger (no clips that leave marks)
• Avoid contact with perfumes and deodorants (irreversible stains)
• Cleaning: dry clean for structured pieces, hand wash in cold water with a gentle shampoo for simpler pieces
• Storage: store in a breathable garment bag, never in plastic

So Tissus silks

Our silks come directly from surplus stock of leading French couture houses. Crêpe de chine, silk twill, satin, pongee... qualities usually reserved for professional workshops, available by the metre at prices up to 60% below market value.

Some of our most popular silks:

• 100% silk crêpe de chine: fluid and versatile, ideal for dresses and blouses
• Printed silk twill: structured and elegant, perfect for skirts and scarves
• Silk satin: luxurious sheen for special occasion creations

All our silk fabrics are available as samples (€3) so you can appreciate the quality before committing.

Have a silk project and need advice? Send us a DM on Instagram @sotissus_com — Andy will be happy to help you choose the right fabric.

Unfortunately, the fabric shown in the photo is no longer available. Find our other silks here!