A fluid dress that isn't see-through: which fabric to choose?

You want a dress that moves, that drapes well, that doesn't cling… and you end up with a fabric that shows everything in the first daylight. Fluid and opaque are not contradictory: you just need to know what to look for when choosing.

Here is how to find the right fabric, and what to do if yours is a little too light.

Why is a fluid fabric often see-through?

Fluidity comes from fine, soft yarns, often viscose or silk. The finer the yarn and the looser the weave, the more light passes between the threads. But it is not inevitable: a tight weave, a slightly thicker yarn or a particular weave (crepe, twill, satin) gives a fluid fabric that stays opaque.

The 4 criteria to check

• Weight: below 100 g/m², a light-coloured fabric will almost always be see-through. Aim for 120 to 180 g/m² for an unlined fluid dress.
• Weave: a crepe, a twill or a satin covers better than a light plain weave or a voile of the same weight.
• Colour: white, beige and pastels show more. Dark colours and busy prints hide a lot.
• The hand test: place your hand under a single layer of fabric, facing a window. If you can clearly see your fingers, the dress will need a lining.

The best fluid, opaque fabrics

1. Viscose crepe — the most versatile

Its slightly grainy surface diffuses the light and makes it more opaque than a smooth viscose. It drapes very well and creases little. A blue floral print viscose crepe makes a perfect wrap dress or shirt dress. To learn more, see our crepe guide.

2. Crepe-back satin — fluid and luminous

Denser than a plain crepe, it has two faces, one matte and one shiny, and drapes beautifully. It covers well, even in mid-tones. A khaki Japanese crepe-back satin is ideal for a dressy long dress.

3. Viscose twill — fluid with body

Its diagonal weave makes it tighter than a viscose plain weave. It is soft, opaque and a little more stable to sew. A navy viscose twill makes an everyday dress that never goes out of style.

4. Fluid knit — the easiest to wear

A viscose knit or a fluid jersey drapes well, does not crease and needs neither a zip nor a lining. A dark brown fluid jersey is perfect for a wrap dress or a long winter dress.

5. Viscose javanaise — soft and opaque

Thicker than a classic viscose, with a slightly powdery feel, it drapes well and covers more. A speckled print viscose javanaise makes an easy dress, made even more opaque by the print.

Is your fabric a little see-through? 3 solutions

• Line the dress: a light, breathable viscose or cupro lining takes nothing away from the drape. Line only the bodice and the skirt, and leave the sleeves unlined.
• Line only the skirt: often it is the lower part that is the problem. A lined skirt is enough.
• Plan a slip: a slip or petticoat matching your skin tone, which you can wear under several dresses.

To know when a lining is worth it, read our article lining or no lining.

Our tips for sewing a fluid fabric

• Wash before cutting: viscose can shrink by several percent in the first wash.
• Cut in a single layer, on paper, with weights and a rotary cutter: the fabric will not slip.
• Let bias-cut pieces hang overnight on a hanger before hemming: the fabric stretches, and you can then correct the length.
• Use a fine needle: 70/10 microtex or 70/10 universal, with fine polyester thread.
• Choose French seams: clean and discreet, they don't show through the fabric.

Our advice to get started

For a first fluid dress, choose a printed viscose crepe between 120 and 150 g/m² and a simple pattern such as a shirt dress or an A-line dress with sleeves. The print hides small mistakes and any sheerness, crepe is easy to sew, and you won't need a lining.

Ready to sew your dress? Find our selection of fluid fabrics on sotissus.com or discover them live on Instagram @sotissus_com!

Do you like the fabric in this article's cover photo? It's our blue floral print viscose crepe — take a look!

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