Sewing linen that doesn't crease too much: our 6 tips

Linen is the signature fabric of summer. Cool, natural, elegant — but let's be honest: it creases if you so much as look at it. A day sitting on the metro, a fold at the elbow, a tight belt, and there you go, your linen trousers look like they've been up all night.

The good news: you can't eliminate creases in linen (it's in its nature), but you can reduce them a lot. Here are our tips, from cutting to everyday care.

1. Choose the right linen from the start

Not all linens crease the same way. A few pointers:

• Pure linen (100% linen): very breathable, but it's the one that creases the most. Its nobility is also its weakness.
• Washed linen (often called "enzyme-washed" or "stone-washed" linen): already softened and pre-creased. Creases are less visible because they blend into the texture.
• Linen + viscose (60% linen / 40% viscose, for example): viscose considerably reduces the tendency to crease. A very good compromise for clothes you wear every day.
• Linen + cotton: a little stiffer and slightly less breathable, but more stable and less prone to creasing than pure linen.
• Linen + elastane: for fitted trousers and skirts, a touch of elastane stops knees and seats from bagging.

If you want the linen look without the hassle of deep creases, go for a linen-viscose blend or a washed linen.

2. Pre-wash (really)

Linen shrinks by up to 10% in the first wash. But above all, this first wash softens the fibre — a linen that hasn't been pre-washed is stiff and will crease more than one that has already been through the machine two or three times.

Before cutting:

• Wash at the temperature you'll use for the finished garment (usually 30 or 40 °C)
• Wash it a second time if you really want to soften it
• Dry it, then press it thoroughly before laying out your pattern

3. Cut and sew on the straight grain

Cutting off-grain (on the bias) increases creasing and distortion. Linen has a very visible weave: take advantage of it to align your pattern carefully with the straight grain. A piece cut on the bias in pure linen means guaranteed creases and a lopsided drape.

The exception: if you deliberately cut on the bias (for a draped skirt, for example), let the piece hang for 48 hours before hemming. The bias stretches under its own weight — otherwise your final hem will be uneven.

4. Line the pieces that suffer the most

The easy compromise: an unlined linen skirt will visibly crease at the back of the thighs after two hours of sitting. A lined skirt will hang well for much longer.

Recommended linings for linen:

• Bemberg (cupro): natural, slippery, breathable. The luxury lining.
• Plain viscose: less expensive, good result.
• Very fine cotton (batiste): for long dresses you want to keep breathable.

Avoid: pure polyester linings, which make you sweat and cancel out the feel of linen.

5. Iron smart

The secret: iron linen while it is slightly damp. You'll save half your time and energy.

• Take the piece out of the dryer while it's still a little damp, or spray it well with a water bottle before ironing
• Hot iron (up to 200 °C), with plenty of steam
• Iron on the wrong side to avoid shine — especially on dark colours
• For very creased pieces: a little spray starch before ironing gives body that lasts all day

6. Store properly (and accept it)

Hang your linen shirts, jackets and trousers on hangers as soon as they're dry — don't leave them in a heap in a basket or folded at the bottom of a drawer.

As for the rest: make peace with the creases. Creased linen is part of its charm. It's precisely what sets it apart from a polyester that imitates linen without its soul. If someone points out a crease, you can reply: "it's real linen".

In summary

• Choose a washed linen or a linen-viscose blend to minimise deep creases
• Pre-wash twice to soften the fibre
• Cut and sew on the straight grain
• Line the pieces you sit in (straight skirts, shift dresses)
• Iron with steam, on slightly damp fabric, on the wrong side
• Hang rather than fold — and accept what can't be avoided

With these habits, your linen clothes will stay presentable for much longer — without losing what makes them charming.