Which fabric to sew a shirt? The complete guide

The shirt is a star project. Versatile and timeless, it can do it all — from a relaxed Sunday to the most formal meeting. But the result comes down to one detail: the fabric. Poplin, linen and viscose won't give you the same shirt at all in the end, even with the same pattern.

Here's how to choose.

The 4 criteria to check first

• Structure: firm enough to hold a collar, supple enough not to feel stiff.
• Weight: between 90 and 150 g/m² for a classic shirt. Beyond that, you're into overshirt territory.
• Transparency: check it in direct light. A fabric that is too fine will need a lining or carefully finished facings.
• Care: if you wear your shirt every day, choose a fabric that can handle the washing machine without complaint.

The best fabrics for a shirt

1. Cotton poplin — the safe choice

It's the shirting fabric par excellence. Tight weave, impeccable structure, breathable, easy to sew and to care for. A 100% cotton poplin irons well, keeps a crisp collar even after a full day, and ages well. Ideal for classic shirts, fitted shirts and structured blouses.

The best choice if you're new to shirtmaking.

2. Linen — for relaxed shirts

For oversized summer shirts, light overshirts and bohemian tunics. Linen has a natural stiffness that gives volume, and it breathes better than any other fabric in a heatwave.

Be warned: it creases instantly. That's its signature, but you have to accept it. If it bothers you, choose a linen-viscose blend, softer and less prone to creasing.

3. Viscose — for a fluid shirt

The shirt that drapes, flows and slips over the shoulder. Viscose gives a silky finish on a reasonable budget. Perfect for fluid shirts, tie blouses and long-sleeved "secretary" style shirts.

A small warning: it slips a lot when cutting. Tack it or use sewing clips to hold it in place.

4. Cotton twill — for the overshirt

Heavier than poplin, twill has a slight sheen and excellent body. Ideal for overshirts, chambray or lightweight denim-style shirts, or lined winter shirts.

5. Silk or crêpe de Chine — for an exceptional piece

For a dress shirt, an evening blouse or a pussy-bow blouse. The drape is unique and the result luxurious. Best kept for sewists who have already cut into fluid fabrics — it's demanding to sew and unforgiving to iron.

Which fabric for which style of shirt?

• Classic / fitted shirt: cotton poplin
• Oversized shirt / overshirt: linen or twill
• Fluid shirt / draped blouse: viscose or crepe
• Dress shirt / pussy-bow blouse: crêpe de Chine, silk
• Light summer shirt: linen or fine poplin
• In-between-season overshirt: cotton twill, gabardine

Our advice for getting started

If it's your first shirt, go for a plain cotton poplin. No print (harder to match when setting in the sleeves and collar), no fluid fabric (precision matters when attaching the collar). A simple pattern, a 110 to 130 g/m² poplin, a universal 80 needle: you have a 90% chance of success.

Once the first one is in the wardrobe, you can move on to linen or viscose for more relaxed or more fluid shirts.

Discover our selection of poplins, our selection of linens, and all our available fabrics.